Wine Reviews: Troon Vineyard

Posted by | Posted in Wine Reviews | Posted on 05-08-2021

I’ve had the pleasure of following Oregon’s Troon Vineyard since 2017, when I first tasted their wines. Since then, the hits just keep coming.

Troon is a biodynamic producer from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, an area in the south of the state that boast diverse geology, warm days, cool nights, and some exciting wineries. Troon, in my opinion, of course, has been consistently slinging out focused, unique wines from a large mix of grape varieties. Over the years, they’ve experimented with different styles, blends, adding things like Pet-Nat and Piquette to the mix, but also focusing on deep, juicy reds made from grapes like Tannat.

I recently tasted four of their releases from 2020, and I’m excited to share them. These wines sport new labels this year, tastefully designed and incorporating images of their biodynamic preparations. (I only point this out because, well, like record album artwork, I think labels matter — and this aesthetic is really working.)

Their Kubli Bench line is composed of really interesting blends, two of which are featured in this week’s report. There’s a delicious Vermentino (definitely a specialty of the winery) and a new, Beaujolais-inspired Grenache that is perfect for warmer weather.

These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2020 Troon Vineyard Vermentino USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light yellow color. Such a fresh, inviting, floral, airy wine, like a spring field of all sorts of flowers, with white tea over top of generous peach and zesty lime. Punchy texture, vibrant acidity, this is a zesty and focused wine with yellow plums, white peach and cantaloupe fruit, drizzled with lime. The honey, clean laundry and floral perfume tones add complexity. Texturally, the depth of this wine is fantastic, too. Fermented in old French oak, aged on the lees for five months. (91 points IJB)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Rosé USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Pale, pale pink color. So fresh and bright on the nose, like a spring field of buttercups, dandelion and clover over top of McIntosh apple, white cherry and peach skin, with some chalk and basil tones, too. Gorgeous texture on the palate, has nice richness but is really zesty and focused at the same time. Peaches, white cherries and honeydew melon fruit blend with perfume, chalky, crusty sea salt tones. Notes of clover, honey, minerals and shells add all sorts of complexity. Exciting, deep but also gluggable as can be. Really well done blend of Primitivo and Tinta Roriz. Fermented in old French oak, 11.7% alcohol. (92 points IJB)

2020 Troon Vineyard Kubli Bench Amber USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $35
Gorgeous honey, light orange color. Bright aromas that just pop: limes, lemon and kumquat, followed up by clover, candied lemon, sea salt, this is just a spritzy, fun-smelling wine. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, and the texture is really fascinating, waxy but never heavy, and the balance is lovely. Chunks of lemon, pineapple and green melon fruit bounce off these flinty, mineral, chalky elements, and there’s some white tea and hints of tobacco as well. Just a lot to unpack. Don’t worry, this is not a feral orange wine, but a pretty, focused and fresh blend of Riesling, Vermentino and Viognier that spends three weeks on the skins. Well, done, Troon! (92 points IJB)

2020 Troon Vineyard Grenache Glou-Glou Cowhorn Vineyard USA, Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Bright purple color. Juicy and inviting on the nose with strawberries and fresh plums, roses, red licorice – just a ton of fun to sniff. Zesty acidity and light tannins frame the wine nicely, and the raspberry and strawberry fruit is bright and delicious. Notes of rose petals, wildflowers, and mild spicy tones add some complexity, too. Stainless steel, carbonic maceration, this is crushable but complex, easy-drinking but sporting impressive depth as well. This is Troon’s first take on this wine, and I look forward to what they’re going to do with it in the future. (90 points IJB)

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