Today I’m excited to debut what I hope will be a semi-regular series here at Terroirist that features tasting notes written about wines from “lesser known” wine regions of the United States.

Having spent five years tasting my way through Virginia’s wine country, I gained an appreciation for the wines of the Commonwealth and found myself wondering what else is out there. I figured a series profiling some wineries that are “off the beaten path” would be fun.

This curiosity brought me to Texas (via the Internet), where I learned about Inwood Estates Vineyards and Wineries.

Inwood has been in business since 1981, and has locations in Dallas and Florence, which is in Texas Hill Country. Winemaker Dan Gatlin describes himself as “a French traditional winemaker,” and prides himself on making wines that bring out the best in each varietal’s characteristics and result in an authentic, traditional wine that vary each vintage. The red wines he produces are made from fruit grown on the Texas/New Mexico border, and are aged in French oak barrels and bottled unfiltered. Mr. Gatlin provided to Terroirist a bottle of 2008 Cornelious (100% tempranillo) and 2006 Magellan, a red Bordeaux blend. These wines were provided as press samples.

Upon opening, the Cornelious was a cloudy red brick color, and the nose wasn’t giving up much of anything. The wine was tight out of the bottle, with tannins muting a faint, but enjoyable undercurrent of red fruit. There was a flavor I can only describe as dusty at the finish, which doesn’t sound attractive but, to me, is a good thing. It’s an earthy, almost smoky flavor profile, and it’s something I’ve enjoyed in many red wines I drank in Virginia. I can only surmise that the mineral-laden soil in Texas brings out these characteristics in the Tempranillo grape.

After drinking half of a glass, I let the wine sit for 45 minutes before revisiting it. It was still quite tannic, but the simple red fruits were starting to show through. I was reminded of pinot noir (think Burgundy, not Russian River Valley) as I enjoyed the spicebox and leathery finish.

At the two-hour mark, this wine was much more fleshed out. The full red fruit profile was evident, without being sweet or heavy in the mouth. The expression of that earthy sense of place was still alive and well, and was probably the most attractive aspect of the Cornelious.

While this wine certainly is not for everyone, it should appeal to wine drinkers who appreciate a more restrained, less fruit-forward style of wine. This was my first taste of Texas wine, and given the results I’m anxious to see what else Inwood, and the state of Texas, has to offer.

2006 Inwood Estates Magellan

Shortly after enjoying the Cornelious, I cracked a bottle of 2006 Magellan, a cab sauv-based Bordeaux blend with some Tempranillo added to the mix.

The nose of the Magellan is Bordeaux all the way, with cedar, dirt, and pencil shavings. The first sips give up a wealth of tart cherries and baking spices, with less-obtrusive tannins than anticipated. After about 30 minutes, characteristics of chocolate, leather, and tobacco started to emerge. The tannins were in a great place, and the finish was 30+ seconds long. After 90 minutes, bright red fruits dominated the taste, and the tannins were completely integrated. The wine was very smooth, if not terribly complex.

Comparing the Magellan and Cornelious is pointless, as they’re completely different breeds. While the Magellan was very enjoyable, you can find wine of its kind anywhere. The same cannot be said for the Cornelious. The Cornelious had a real sense of place.  Its flavor profile conjured up a vivid scene of the dusty Texas plains beneath a scorching sun. A lot is made of terroir, but this wine really had it. With its leathery, earthy mouth-feel, and overall rustic expressions, I don’t think you could make a wine that’s more in tune with what the Lone Star state is all about.

If you know of a winery that’s “off the beaten path” which you’d like to see profiled on Terroirist, please share your idea in the comments.