Jill Erber, at Cheesetique in Alexandria, VA.

No matter how much you think you know about cheese, entering Cheesetique in Alexandria, Virginia, is a humbling experience. Proprietor Jill Erber stocks, on any given day, 300 or more cheeses and cured meats, ranging from a silky and buttery Daffinois to a “3 noses” ripe and complex Cashiel Blue. There is a wall of carefully chosen wines reflecting a broad range of vineyards, methods, and price points; a wide selection of cheese accouterments; and gourmet items ranging from locally made chocolates to artisan vinegars.

Making a decision at the display case is difficult, but if you enter the cheese and wine bar, it becomes easier. You can choose several different complimentary cheeses or charcuterie from the rotating special list to sample, there is also a menu of cheese-centric dishes and an extensive wine list. If you attend one of Ms. Erber’s cheese tasting classes, you see immediately that this woman is the Robert Parker of cheeses, and is also passionate about her wine. Last week, I decided to ask her how Cheesetique’s perfect pairing of cheese and wine came about.

Audrey: What is your first food memory and/or the first dish you prepared that really piqued your interest in food?

Jill: My mother worked endlessly when I was growing up, so homemade meals were practically nonexistent. However, she had one classic dish – orange chicken – that she could make without a recipe. It would just be “a little of this, a little of that” and when she made it, I remember even as a very young child, being in awe of her like she was magic. Cooking wasn’t “what she did” but it inspired me even then to be like that – cooking by feel.

Audrey: I understand you worked in the corporate tech world. What inspired you to start this business and become a cheesemonger?

Jill: After leaving technology, I worked for about a year for a gourmet wholesaler in the DC area. My job was to educate chefs about all sorts of new products and my favorite task was putting on the cheese show. I had always loved cheese, but that was the first time I learned about the “industry” of cheese making. The more I learned, but more I loved everything about it (the farmers, the cheese makers, the chefs and purveyors that exposed the public to these creations). I had always wanted to start a business and thought this would be a perfect way to blend my love of cheese with that desire. To top it all off, I was lucky enough to live in a neighborhood where this type of business is a great fit (Del Ray).

A snapshot of Cheesetique's selection.

Audrey: The economy is in rough shape but people are still willing to pay $25/lb or more for your cheeses even as they cut back on other budget items. Who is your customer?

Jill: Our customers are so varied, it’s hard to pin down one type. And since we have the retail shop, the restaurant, and the classes, we draw different people in different moods. I would say that on the retail side, the “typical” customer just has to be someone who likes to entertain and be entertained at home. In the restaurant, we tend to get a lot of couples and groups of good friends who want a laid-back place to hang out, eat well, and learn a little something. At Cheesetique, they can do that and still respect their budgets (we have been repeatedly chosen as a “Cheap Eat” by Washingtonian Magazine). Finally, at the classes we get lots of singles and couples who want something a little different to do in the evening. Across the board, though, the Cheesetique customer has to be into food, curious to try new things, and not afraid to ask questions. Plus, they can’t be lactose intolerant.

Audrey: Tell me about the first wine you loved.

Jill: The first wine I truly loved was Paul Autard Chateauneuf du Pape 1999. Sounds specific, I know, but I drank it on my honeymoon in France over 9 years ago and it literally changed my entire thinking about wine. To this day, Chateauneuf du Pape is one of my favorite wines and we just got a case of the same Paul Autard vintage for our anniversary last year.

Audrey: How would you compare a nose for cheese to a palate for wine?  Are all cheese lovers oenophiles and vice-versa?

Jill: I think these are very similar because both involve aroma, flavor, and texture. I think that’s why so many cheese lovers are wine lovers (it’s not just because they pair so nicely). The same nuances that one can appreciate in wine can also apply to cheese. Plus, the notion of terroir is just as important for cheese as it is for wine. Where the animal is raised, what it eats and drinks, and how it is treated will affect the flavor of the milk and resulting cheese.

Cheesetique's wine bar

Audrey: When you first opened you were tiny, now you have the bar and dining area and you’re planning another expansion. How much does wine contribute to your bottom line?

Jill: When we first opened, we were just retail with no bar at all. Then, when we moved down the block to our current space, we added the bar/restaurant with a total of 30 seats. When we expand, we will only have 60+ seats, so we are definitely going to remain cozy and intimate. Wine has been a growing passion of ours and I like to think that our wine selection has become more and more interesting, but also approachable, as we have matured. However, cheese has always been our focus and remains the focus of our customers. For instance, all of our wines are chosen because of how well they pair with cheese, not the other way around. That’s why our restaurant is called the “Cheese & Wine Bar” and not the “Wine & Cheese Bar.” The wines are very much the “accessories” to the cheeses.

Audrey: How do you select the wines that you sell?  Do you prefer to deal with vineyards, brokers or wholesalers?

Jill: We select wines by trusting and tasting with our wholesalers. Because of the strict ABC laws in Virginia, we can’t buy from vineyards directly, which is very frustrating. However, we have chosen our vendors based on their boutique approach, love of the winemakers, and appreciation of the special needs of a small business. We have a very special relationship with each of our wholesale representatives because we have worked with them for years now. They know us so well and their recommendations tend to be spot-on. For instance, Jason W. knows never to bring me an oaky Chardonnay.

Audrey: If you had to limit yourself to 3 wines to pair with multiple cheeses, what would they be?

Jill: Easy. Champagne, Riesling, Pinot Noir. That covers all styles (sparkling, white, red) and each of those will go with practically every cheese on the planet.

Audrey: Which wine is open in your home right now, and what do you plan to open tonight?

Jill: I can’t stand day-old wine, so the only wine currently open is a boxed wine called “From the Tank Red,” which is a Cotes du Rhone from a sustainable cooperative in France. Cheesetique prides itself in our selection of boxed wines and hopes to change people’s thinking about their quality. I love boxed wines because it stays perfectly fresh for weeks so I can grab a glass whenever I want without worrying about wasting the rest of the bottle. Of course, there are other benefits (better price point because of less glass and lighter shipping weights, less environmental impact, etc.). But really, it’s great wine that tastes that way for a really long time. I’m so happy that more upscale producers are adopting this technique.

Audrey: Regular customers have seen your cute little kids. What are their favorite cheeses and when do you plan to teach them about wine?

Jill: My girls love “squishy” cheeses and hard cheeses. They’re still pretty small, so blues and stinky cheeses are not an option. I already teach them about wine every day because wine is part of our daily lives and part of our cooking and eating process. So, the girls think it’s totally normal. In fact, they both go down to the cellar with me to pick that night’s selection – I tell them why I’m picking it and why it’s special. They carry the bottle upstairs for me – that’s their “important” job. I don’t ever want my children to be mystified by wine – it will always be a very accepted part of our household.