Daily Wine News: Underwater Woes

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 07-20-2021

Historic flooding in Germany. Photo via @juliabertramdernau on Instagram

Late last week, terrible floods struck villages in Western Germany, with the Ahr and Mosel among the worst affected. Michael Schmidt reports from the region most affected by the floods on JancisRobinson.com. “Almost all wine estates, or what is left of them, are located more or less in the immediate vicinity of the river. In the mid-nineteenth century Ahr growers faced their biggest existential crisis, which led to the founding of Germany’s first vintners’ co-operative, securing the survival of the industry. It will take an even greater effort of solidarity to do it all over again.”

In the Los Angeles Times, Steve Lopez reports that Ocean Fathoms, a project associated with SuperSomm and winemaker Rajat Parr, has attracted the ire of the California Coastal Commission. “In effect, the agency said: The ocean is not your private wine locker, guys. So get the wine out of the water or face fines that could run in the tens of thousands of dollars.”

The 2005 Bordeaux vintage will require decades to evolve and develop. Is that better than wines that are terrific sooner, but not as majestic? Eric Asimov explores his answer in the New York Times. “Wines with the ability to evolve slowly for decades are rare and precious, no doubt. But shouldn’t we cherish wines that are more immediately charming, and that still can give immense pleasure after 25 years, but maybe not after 50? Too often, these sorts of wines are dismissed with faint praise.”

Jancis Robinson profiles Bolivian winemaker Jardín Oculto. “Bolivia is home to some of the highest vineyards in the world but the most extraordinary aspect of his work in Bolivia is not altitude but the 200-year-old vines themselves. Just like when the Spaniards brought vines to Latin America in the sixteenth century, the vines Gowda works with grow not in neat rows on trellises nor as low bushes, but clamber, undisciplined, up trees…”

During quarantine, Wine Enthusiast’s Layla Schlack developed her own wine-pairing rules. “…in the privacy of my home, with only my dog and wine-averse husband by my table, I’ve learned to be adventurous with my pairings in a new way.”

In Wine Enthusiast, Matt Lardie highlights restaurant wine lists focused on bottles from underrepresented regions and communities.

Can design-forward tasting rooms attract more millennials to wine? Tina Caputo explores the subject in VinePair.

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