Daily Wine News: The Problem With Burgundy

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-18-2020

Vineyard in Burgundy (Source: Wikimedia)

“The problem with Burgundy’s hierarchy is that it is snapshot in time, impervious to the realities of a warming climate and the supremely fussy character of Pinot Noir. It is a winegrowing axiom that the benefits of terroir take many forms, from the slope angle to the positive qualities of underlying soil structure – all (largely) immutable factors. But it is undeniable that climate conquers all; sites that formerly benefited from an ideal aspect and angle to facilitate sun exposure may now cause growers headaches. A growing firmament of grand crus are becoming likely candidates for a swift downgrading, as Pinot Noir simply will not tolerate excessive warmth. It ripens, yes, but the resulting wine is rarely memorable.” Climate change is the latest challenge for Burgundy, says James Lawrence in Wine-Searcher.

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