Daily Wine News: The New Yorker Tackles Natural Wine—Again

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 11-19-2019

Bar at La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels

Bar at La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels

“In the Napa boom of the nineteen-nineties, consumers prized wines that were rich and flawless. Now they’re seeking out wines that are more expressive than correct; wines that are earthy, with visible sediment; wines that taste alive.” In the New Yorker, Rachel Monroe considers the factors that led to the natural wine boom, and the problems with it going mainstream.

What makes a wine taste expensive? Margaret Rand ponders the answer on Tim Atkin’s site. “We’re not talking here about what makes a wine expensive, but what gives it that burnish, that gloss, that announces – whispers, even – money. Some expensive wines don’t taste expensive. They might taste so fascinating, so complex that you know they are expensive – but that’s not quite the same thing. I can think of great Austrian whites that are deservedly very expensive but don’t have that burnish. It’s harder for whites. The taste of money is much more a red thing.”

In Wine Enthusiast, Kathleen Willcox looks at the rise of Italian grapes in American vineyards.

In Bloomberg, Elin McCoy explains why cider should be the official drink of Thanksgiving.

On JancisRobinson.com, Alder Yarrow reports on the recovery efforts being made in Sonoma after the Kincade Fire. (subscription req.)

In Grape Collective, Valerie Kathawala explores why Domäne Wachau is Austria’s number one winery.

In the Drinks Business, New Zealand-based lighter wines pioneer Dr. John Forrest speaks out against the rise of zero % abv wines.

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