Daily Wine News: Chianti Classico, Cool?

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-28-2018

chianticlassicologoIn Wine & Spirits Magazine, Stephanie Johnson makes the case for Chianti Classico. “A few key tastemakers have taken notice of the growing number of value-driven, terroir-expressive Chianti Classicos now coming into the market. Their voices, along with a pair of very good vintages about to hit our shores, might just be enough to push Chianti Classico back onto the lists of savvy wine buyers.”

“Wine and spirits mogul Dave Phinney just sold another wine brand to E. & J. Gallo: Locations, his 90,000-case brand of wines from around the globe. A price was not disclosed,” reports Esther Mobley in the San Francisco Chronicle.

On Tim Atkin’s site, Peter Pharos responds to Lisa Perrotti-Brown’s recent article, “The Big Parkerization Lie”: “There is a kernel of truth in Lisa’s argument. Indeed, one way to tell the story of that era is as the arrival in the global wine stage, not of Parker, but of the American consumer…According to this narrative, Parker didn’t make this wave as much as rode it…There is, however, a big lie in the heart of The Big Parkerization Lie: the implicit assumption that the Dictatorship of Taste was solely about style. Instead, the true Parkerization of wine came in the form of The Score.”

Fiona Adams profiles the producers that are redefining American wine in Wine Enthusiast. The winemakers hail from New Mexico, Michigan, Texas and Vermont.

In Wines & Vines, growers from Paso Robles to Santa Barbara weigh in on unusual growing season thus far.

Chantal Martineau looks at how climate change is shaping Canada’s wine regions in SevenFifty Daily.

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague finds much to love in Germany’s Mosel Valley. (subscription req.)

In Punch, Jon Bonné recommends 20 wines under $20 to drink this summer.

Daily Wine News: Wine and Weed at War

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-27-2018

(Flickr: jewdini)

(Flickr: jewdini)

In the Outline, Natalie O’Neill chronicles the war being waged between wine and weed in Oregon. “The bigger story here pits wine against weed — and traditional farmers against burgeoning marijuana entrepreneurs — in states where growing bud is freshly legal (Oregon legalized it in 2014)… But the squabbles are as much about property values and quality of life gripes as a deep-seeded culture clash.”

It’s official: Napa’s Measure C Lost,” reports Kerana Todorov on WineBusiness.com.

Tom Wark reacts to the Measure C results: “Measure C failed and reason prevailed. But not by much. It’s absolutely clear, based on the Measure C campaign and the results, that a good percentage of Napa County residents believe that the wine industry here needs, in some way, to be reined in.”

In Wines & Vines, Stacey Briscoe talks to Bruce Cohn, founder of Sonoma’s B.R. Cohn Winery, about the sale of his original winery and his new label, Trestle Glen Vineyards.

In Wine Spectator, Emma Balter reports on Italy’s push to make premium sparkling wine in regions like Franciacorta and Trento. “Although exports are on the rise, Franciacorta will never compete with Champagne or Prosecco in terms of volume. But this allows the region to be quality-conscious, as well as mindful of the environment.”

In the Robb Report, Dan Dunn talks to Tom Gearing, managing director of wine investment company Cult Wines Asset Management, about his predictions for the global market for fine wine.

Wine Enthusiast compiles a list of the best box wines to buy right now.

In Sprudge Wine, Christina Rasmussen visits Eben Sadie in the heart of Swartland.

Daily Wine News: Charting Changes

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-26-2018

New Zealand vineyards. (Wikimedia)

New Zealand vineyards. (Wikimedia)

In Decanter, Elin McCoy is impressed with recent developments in New Zealand wine. “It all leaves you a little breathless, as does the surprising speed with which the wine industry has changed and grown since my last visit to New Zealand in 2009.”

In Meininger’s, Felicity Carter looks at the demographic changes that will upend the wine sector. “In the short-term, then, the wine industry will likely face consolidation, as heirs sell small, unviable properties and get on with their lives. Those businesses that remain in family hands are likely to become more modern, more professional and more open to ideas and practices taken from other industries.”

Antonio Galloni finds “a bevy of striking, captivating wines in Alto Piemonte and Lombardy’s Valtellina,” and offers his notes in Vinous.

In the Buyer, Peter Dean talks with Marcus Notaro of Stags’ Leap about surviving the Napa fires.

Ella Lister explores Bordeaux en primeur’s existential crisis on JancisRobinson.com.

Wine Spectator reports that Eric Albada Jelgersma, the owner of third-growth Bordeaux estate Château Giscours and fifth-growth Château du Tertre in the Margaux appellation, as well as the Tuscan winery Caiarossa, died on June 21. He was 79.

In VinePair, Tim McKirdy makes the case for age-worthy sauvignon blanc.

In Forbes, David Rosengarten talks to David Phinney about shifting his focus from wine to spirits.

Daily Wine News: Remembering Dennis Horton

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-25-2018

Dennis Horton in 2008. (Flickr: Southern Foodways Alliance)

Dennis Horton in 2008. (Flickr: Southern Foodways Alliance)

Dave McIntyre remembers key member of Virginia’s wine community, Dennis Horton, in the Washington Post. “Horton’s successes still resonate and help shape the public’s image of Virginia wine. He was the first commercial vintner to plant Viognier, syrah, touriga, marsanne, roussanne, nebbiolo, tannat, pinotage, rkatsiteli and other grape varieties found across the state today.”

Jancis Robinson ponders how to be a new-wave Champagne producer. “I was going to describe the new wave as powerful, but I’m not sure that’s true. They are still a small minority and have relatively little financial power. Most (though not all) of them are small family enterprises rather than big international companies. They tend to promote themselves by grouping together…”

Esther Mobley explores California’s wine sustainability dilemma in the San Francisco Chronicle.

In Wine-Searcher, Christy Canterbury tests out the Syphon, “the future of wine preservation” and new competitor to Coravin.

In Wine Spectator, Brianne Garrett looks at the increasing number of universities that are training future wine professionals.

Jenna K. White profiles Maud van Berlo, the owner of Rotterdam’s first natural wine shop in Wine Enthusiast.

In Grape Collective, Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher talk to John Skupny about the importance of stories for wines.

Mike Madaio explores Italy’s Chiaretto wines in VinePair.

Daily Wine News: Wine Bar Renaissance

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-22-2018

restaurant-glass-wine-glasses-largeIn Eater, Anna Roth looks at how chefs are resetting expectations of what a wine bar can be: “not a stodgy ’80s-throwback where you had a bad date once, but something that feels vital and relevant to the food scene in 2018. Like beer and cocktail bars before it, the wine bar is poised for a rebranding. The question is whether we’re ready to embrace it.”

“Where have all the opinions gone when it comes to wine writing?” asks Oliver Styles in Wine-Searcher. “I want wine writers to start according more space to their views on everyday wines, not just expensive greats… And, while I personally like technical winemaking details, maybe drop the sentences on new oak percentage or elevage and tell us whether or not these aspects worked, what they brought to the party.”

“A leader in the rebirth of the Virginian wine industry, Dennis Horton, died June 19. He was 73,” reports Wines & Vines.

Do Oakville’s Napa cabs still reign supreme? Virginie Boone shows why Oakville is still at the top of its game in Wine Enthusiast.

Elsewhere in Wine Enthusiast, Eddie Cepeda finds a new appreciation for Mexican wine on a journey to his hometown.

Eric Asimov reports that winemakers in Manchuela, Spain are finding a new appreciation for bobal in the New York Times.

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague follows a sales rep around Manhattan to see exactly how a bottle makes its way onto a wine list.

Fast Company talks to John Legend about his new wine collection, Legend Vineyard Exclusive. “The collection is in partnership with Raymond Vineyards Proprietor Jean-Charles Boisset and includes a cabernet, chardonnay, a red blend, and now a rosé.”

Daily Wine News: Carmenère’s Identity

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-21-2018

Carmenère. (Wikimedia)

Carmenère. (Wikimedia)

In Wine & Spirits Magazine, Patricio Tapia looks at the evolution of Chilean carmenère. “Only recently, as winegrowers have pulled back on ripeness and oak treatments, has the true identity of Chilean carmenère begun to emerge… That green, vegetal note—from methoxypyrazines, the same compound that gives bell peppers their hallmark flavor and comes up in some underripe grape varieties—has been one of the central themes in the discussion of carmenère in Chile.”

Paul Hobbs ponders the role of nature and nurture in terroir, using the terroir of Burgundy as an example. “If Burgundy were to disappear tomorrow and they had to start all over again, with no history, no presumptions or hierarchies of greatness, would the re-creation of Burgundy look exactly the same way as it does now? What would the wines of Burgundy be today if those monks toiling hundreds of years ago were not allowed to innovate?”

Lauren Mowery talks to sommelier Dustin Wilson about his career move into wine retail in Forbes.

What will it take before grappa gets respect? Kara Newman dives into the answer in Wine Enthusiast.

Canadian winemaker Norman Hardie has been accused of sexual misconduct. In the Globe and Mail, Ann Hui and Ivy Knight investigate the patter of alleged sexual advance and sexual harassment by the major player in Canada’s food and wine industry.

Château Prieuré Sainte-Anne, an AOC Côtes de Bordeaux producer near to Capian, has been bought by Belgian private investors Mr and Mrs Herwig and Annelies Callewier-Corne, reports Laura Seal in Decanter.

Jon Bonné applies his “New” narrative to a new country—the New Chile—in Punch.

On the Alcohol Professor, Devon Trevathan explores the concept of “airroir.”

Daily Wine News: A Merlot Apology

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-20-2018

Merlot. (Wikimedia)

Merlot. (Wikimedia)

The author of Sideways, Rex Pickett, apologized for ruining merlot’s reputation at a festival celebrating the grape in Walla Walla this weekend, reports W. Blake Gray in Wine-Searcher. “”I didn’t set out to destroy the Merlot industry,” Pickett said, in front of a crowd that was about one-third winemakers and grapegrowers. “I need some exoneration here.”…Now the roles of Pinot Noir and Merlot are reversed.”

“The last batch of Burgundy from revered producer Henri Jayer sold for 34.5 million Swiss francs ($35 million) in Geneva on Sunday, more than double the upper-end estimate, in what the seller described as the largest wine auction ever,” reports Thomas Buckley in Bloomberg.

Stevie Stacionis pens an op-ed about why it’s so hard to be a mom in the wine business in SevenFifty Daily.

In Vogue, Todd Plummer highlights the women shaping the future of Argentina’s wine industry.

On JancisRobinson.com, Tamlyn Currin looks at France’s 2018 growing season so far.

Wines & Vines reports that the Virginia Winemakers Research Exchange has hired Joy Ting to be its new research enologist and exchange coordinator as the next step forward in its growth.

Ian D’Agata ponders the wines of Valle d’Aosta in Vinous.

In Wine Spectator, Lexi Williams breaks down the results of a new study that finds drinkers have different mouth bacteria than non-drinkers.

In Forbes, Brad Japhe considers the seriousness of canned wines.

Daily Wine News: Napa’s 2017 Vintage

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-19-2018

(Source: Visit Napa Valley)

(Source: Visit Napa Valley)

Antonio Galloni offers his impressions of the 2017 Napa Valley wines in Vinous. “On paper, the most favored wines in 2017 are those that were picked on the earlier side, usually by stylistic choice rather than a knee-jerk reaction to weather, and fully fermented by the time fires arrived… The reality today is that the body of knowledge on smoke taint is relatively limited.”

In the SOMM Journal, Michelle Ball profiles Federica Rosy Boffa Pio, the fifth-generation proprietor and future of the time-honored Pio Cesare.

Dom Pérignon has announced that its long-standing chef de cave, Richard Geoffroy, will formally hand over to Vincent Chaperon at the end of the year. Laura Seal has the details in Decanter.

In SevenFifty Daily, Vicki Denig talks to sommelier Patrick Cappiello about his shift from working the floor to wine brokering.

Tim Carl charts the success of Lodi wines in the Napa Valley Register. “Lodi grows a plethora of different wine grapes — more than 100 — which has allowed vintners to explore, tinker and find unique niches for their brands.”

In Wine-Searcher, Liza B. Zimmerman examines the fallout from Napa’s Measure C.

In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre offers tips on how to identify vegan wines.

In the Guardian, Fiona Beckett highlights six wines from eastern Europe.

Daily Wine News: Henri Jayer Auction

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-18-2018

Source: Baghera Wines

Source: Baghera Wines

In Bloomberg, Thomas Buckley and Thomas Mulier report that 1,064 bottles from the late Henri Jayer are up for auction through a Swiss wine upstart that, two years ago, pulled bottles from an auction due to authenticity concerns. “As intriguing as the chance to buy one of these rare and precious wines is, the choice of the auctioneer is even more curious. Rather than selling through established houses such as Christie’s or Sotheby’s, Jayer’s daughters turned to Geneva-based Baghera Wines…”

In Wine Spectator, Kim Marcus offers an update on Argentina’s 2018 vintage. “Some in the Mendoza region were downright exultant, comparing 2018 to the 2013 vintage, which produced some of the best wines of recent memory.”

In Forbes, Susan H. Gordon looks at the history of Italian wine grapes in Washington.

Jancis Robinson celebrates 150 years of Lafite and profiles Saskia de Rothshchild.

In Eater, Ellen Fort reports on the daylong conference aimed to open the conversation about women in wine, Bâtonnage, planned to take place on July 28 in Napa.

James Lawther explains why Sauternes second wines are worth exploring in Decanter.

Tom Wark responds to Lisa Perrotti-Brown’s recent piece, “The Big Parkerization Lie.”

In Wine-Searcher, Liza B. Zimmerman talks to a drinks attorney about the less-than-obvious legal infractions wineries face on the internet.

Daily Wine News: Bordeaux’s Vintages

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 06-15-2018

bordeaux-wine-cork-984x500In Decanter, Jane Anson tells the story of how Bordeaux came to embrace the idea of vintage wines. “Until the 1970s, many châteaux would only bottle the best plots of the best years. The rest would be sold to négociants in bulk, who did their own labelling, bottling and blending – and often chose to sell the wine without specifying the year…the notion of a Bordeaux vintage was similar to that in Champagne or in Port – which means it was a reflection of excellence, not something that was seen every year.”

“While it may not be possible to quantify the effect that Mr. Lafon and other Burgundian winemakers have had on Willamette wine production, the question remains: Why have Oregon chardonnays improved so much? One reason is that Willamette producers have taken chardonnay increasingly seriously on its own terms.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov tracks Oregon’s progress with chardonnay.

“Whether or not you think rosé has jumped the shark, and it absolutely has, is irrelevant,” says Emily Saladino in VinePair. “What’s important now is reevaluating how pink wine is marketed, sold, and even enjoyed in the coming years.”

Napa County Measure C unlikely to pass, according to preliminary results, reports Kerana Todorov on WineBusiness.com. Final results are due later this month.

In a study appearing in ACS’ Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, scientists report that they have found a way to use tiny magnetic particles to remove off-tasting substances in cabernet sauvignon without altering its desired bouquet.

Tony Smith of Quinta da Boavista tells the Drinks Business that in order for Portugal to be taken seriously as a fine wine country, Portugal needs to raise the price of its dry red wines.

In Guernica, Meg Bernhard reports on Catalonia’s organic winemakers who see their work as deeply tied to national identity.

In the Guardian, Sarah Butler looks at how British consumers are developing a taste for east European wines as they seek out cheaper alternatives to French and Italian wines.