Daily Wine News: 1 Woman, 60 Vintages

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-27-2015

Lalou Bize-Leroy (Domaine Leroy)

Lalou Bize-Leroy (Domaine Leroy)

Jancis Robinson attends a tasting with Maison Leroy’s Lalou Bize-Leroy, “Burgundy’s most celebrated vigneronne,” who was “celebrating a career choosing and then making wine that spans 60 vintages.” Leroy served the group 22 Burgundies from her debut vintage, 1955.

“It’s as if basic means ordinary, pedestrian, common, uninteresting. And the more unusual wines, sometimes of a lesser quality, they get a pass because they are different…” Alfonso Cevola challenges wine directors to return to classic wines. “To use a wine list to display one’s aptitude for finding the obscure over the contentment of the guest, well that just flies in the face of why we are here.”

Is drinking wine alone a bad idea? In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague talks to some experts, tips her glass to all the wine drinkers who decline to drink alone and concludes: nope.

A look into what makes Napa Valley valuable in Wine & Vines.

According to Wine Searcher, “the family of a Bordeaux winegrower that died of a pesticide-related illness will file a case for manslaughter before the Public Health Division of the Paris courts.”

In the midst of California’s drought, “the debate over dry farming divides Wine Country,” reports Bill Swindell in the Press Democrat.

In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre on exploring and restoring California’s old vines.

In Vine Pair, “why your organic wine is actually really bad for the environment.”

Cathy Huyghe takes a road trip through Virginia wine country in Forbes.

Daily Wine News: Mad for Manzanilla

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-24-2015

Olives with glasses of manzanilla (Flickr: goodiesfirst)

Olives with glasses of manzanilla (Flickr: goodiesfirst)

In the New York Times, Eric Asimov embraces a new wave of distinctive manzanilla sherries. “Manzanilla sherry is often pigeonholed as the lighter, paler, more delicate sibling of fino sherry. It’s correct to call manzanilla a subset of fino…But lighter? More delicate?”

Will Lyons talks with Frog’s Leap’s John Williams about the virtues of Merlot in the Wall Street Journal. “We trashed its reputation with one line in a movie.”

“Wine events teach the wrong things about wine,”says W. Blake Gray.

2015 marks the 50th anniversary of winemaking in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. In Forbes, Larry Olmsted reflects on how far the region’s wines have come.

Always missing your wine deliveries? Alder Yarrow offers a solution: an app called Doorman.

According to Grape Collective, New Jersey is “the most user-friendly wine region in the U.S.”

Jane Anson hits the hills of northern Piedmont in Decanter.

Sophie Barrett reports from Champagne on the exciting things happening in the region right now.

In Wine Spectator, MaryAnn Worobiec follows the evolution of Sauvignon Blanc’s quality and popularity.

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka features Gianni Piccoli of Bardolino’s Corte Gardoni.

Wine-Searcher lists the 10 most searched-for Sauvignon Blancs.

Daily Wine News: Keeping Pace

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-23-2015

Cédric Bouchard (Source: Polaner Selections)

Cédric Bouchard and his wines (Source: Polaner Selections)

Alder Yarrow features the Champagnes of Cédric Bouchard. “The last 15 years have seen a massive spotlight turned on individual grower-producers, and Bouchard has been the wunderkind of the movement.”

Trouble with New York’s wine shipping continues. The Albany Times Union has a detailed account on why the New York Times wine club has suspended shipments to members who live in New York. Tyler Colman offers his thoughts on the issue.

“According to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, the planet’s mean annual temperature will increase at least 2°F to as much as 11.5°F over the next century. Can the world’s vaunted vineyards, and the growers who tend them, keep pace?” In Punch, Lauren Mowery investigates.

In Wine Spectator, Tim Fish visits with Phil Coturri, “the organic grapegrowing guru of Napa and Sonoma.”

“Pierre Dopff of Dopff au Moulin died on Tuesday,” reports Wine-Searcher. “Doupff was one of the prime movers behind the Crémant d’Alsace appellation.” He was 94.

In the Village Voice, Lauren Mowery talks with Christy Canterbury MW about her route to getting a Master’s of Wine.

The head of China’s biggest wine brand admits its wines are “not very good,” reports Richard Macauley in Quartz.

In the Los Angeles Times, S. Irene Virbila reviews Organically Napa, an app that shows you Napa Valley’s organic wines and wineries.

Grape Collective profiles Gregory Hecht of Hecht & Bannier.

Daily Wine News: Consider Competitions

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-22-2015

(Flickr: fred chiang)

(Flickr: fred chiang)

“Wine competitions are only as good as the wines entered… So, when wines that win the top awards claim to be the best in the world, well, they’re probably not.” In Wine-Searcher, Rebecca Gibb wonders why none of the recent winners of the Chardonnay du Monde competition — which recognizes “the world’s best Chardonnay wines” — were from Burgundy, and highlights issues with wine competitions.

In the New York Times, Eric Asimov’s obituary of Joseph Phelps. “Mr. Phelps brought a restless, entrepreneurial spirit to wine country and a fine eye for talent.”

In reaction to an article about family companies in the Economist, Mike Veseth, the wine economist, explores why corporations haven’t crushed the family wine business.

In Bloomberg, Elin McCoy explains what criteria she looks for in a great wine list.

Laurie Daniel re-evaluates Napa’s 2011 Cabs in the Mercury News.

In Wine Spectator, Matt Kramer traveled to Valle d’Aosta to visit Michel Vallet of Feudo di San Maurizio.

Madeline Puckette questions “what makes Cristal Champagne so great?” in Wine Folly.

In Paste Magazine, Madina Papadopoulos profiles House of Mandela, a South African winery run by Nelson’s daughter and granddaughter.

Will Lyons recommends “five of the best wines you’ve never heard of” for springtime drinking in the Wall Street Journal.

In Bustle, wines that pair best with each kind of Hillary Clinton speech.

Daily Wine News: Champagne Findings

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-21-2015

Disgorging Champagne bottles (Champagne Larmandier-Bernier)

Disgorging Champagne bottles (Champagne Larmandier-Bernier)

According to Decanter, “a debate is underway in Champagne over whether there should be a mandatory resting period for wines following disgorgement, before bottles are released on the market.”

Wine Searcher shares results from the latest analysis of some of the 170-year-old bottles of Champagne found in 2010 on the floor of the Baltic Sea. It suggests the wines were three times sweeter than modern bubbly. “The bottles contain what is likely the oldest Champagne ever tasted.”

In Palate Press, W. Blake Gray explores California’s El Dorado wine region. “The divide in California wine seems simple: the coasts are cool, the interior is not. But then there’s El Dorado.”

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka visits Co Lojera in Lugana. “Aged Ca Lojera wines are wonderful – full of life, freshness and viscosity both, with a mineral drive that ages towards infinity. The young wines masquerade as simply approachable.”

Doug Wregg of Les Caves de Pyrene on “The Accidental Death of the Wine Writer.”

In Wine Searcher, Zachary Sussman wonders if a new generation of online auction bidders will bypass traditional favorites like Bordeaux and Burgundy.

The Los Angeles Times finds out what winemaker Steve Matthiasson is drinking now.

Melinda Crow features the wines of Franciacorta in Yahoo.

Daily Wine News: “Le Bordeaux Bashing”

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-20-2015

(Wikimedia)

(Wikimedia)

After a trip to Bordeaux, Jancis Robinson offers her reflections on the en primeur tasting and the 2014 wines, and learns a new term: le Bordeaux bashing. “But should people buy the 2014 reds? Yes definitely if the Bordelais were to swallow their pride and do what they did in 2008: offer it at lower prices than the overpriced, inferior vintage that preceded it. No if they have a cellarful of maturing red Bordeaux already.”

Why does the federal government care about 6 cases of wine sitting at the bottom of Charleston Harbor? Jenny Hopkinson investigates the issue in Politico.

In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre profiles Daniel Roberts, “the man who brings science to the modern art of winemaking” in Sonoma County.

In Wine Searcher, a look at vineyards at Boulogne, planted overlooking the English Channel.

James Laube remembers Napa Valley’s Joe Phelps in Wine Spectator.

In the Guardian, David Williams wonders why people get so cross about natural wine.

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka talks with Alder Yarrow about his book, The Essence of Wine.

In Grape Collective, Giampiero Bea on setting up ViniVeri — a natural wine fair — with a group of self described “anarchical naturalists.”

Alfonso Cevola thinks young Americans can learn a lot from Rudi Wiest.

In the San Francisco Examiner, how to plan a stress-free trip to the wine country.

Daily Wine News: Sta. Rita Hills

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-17-2015

StaRitaHills

Sta. Rita Hills AVA (Wikimedia)

“This is still a relatively new region…they are still discovering the character of their sites and the best methods for managing the vineyards and making the wines.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov reviews Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir.

In the Wall Street Journal, Will Lyons profiles Château Lafleur, one of the few top château still home to the owners’ family. “Everything about Lafleur feels tiny…The only thing that isn’t diminutive is the wine’s reputation, which over the years has been laden with superlatives.”

In Purple Pages, Alder Yarrow highlights the difference in pricing strategy between the worlds two greatest concentrations of Cabernet quality, Napa Valley and Bordeaux.

Napa vintner and pioneer Joseph Phelps dies at 87, reports Wine Spectator.

Elsewhere in Wine Spectator, how the sinking Euro and rising dollar are making waves in the wine industry.

Fiona Beckett looks at the trouble with wine apps in the Guardian.

Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s Provence rosé, Miraval, is being targeted by counterfeiters in China.

Grape Collective talks to winemaker Alessandro Cellai about organic winemaking, French-Italian relations and Amar’e Stoudemire.

Stuart Pigott profiles Mosel winemaker Markus Molitor in Wine Searcher.

In Eater, Roberto Paris offers advice for which wines to drink with burgers.

Daily Wine News: Oldest Ruinart Found

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-16-2015

(Champagne Ruinart)

(Champagne Ruinart)

Ransacked by the Nazis, Ruinart had no pre-World War II bottles — until now. In Wine Searcher, Adam Lechmere reports that bottles of 1929 Champagne Ruinart were found in a private cellar in Alsace.

Wine counterfeiter Rudy Kurniawan appeals conviction, reports Wine Spectator. “’Dr. Conti’ argues FBI search of his home was unlawful and counterfeiting evidence should be suppressed.”

Elsewhere in Wine Spectator, Tim Fish talks to Ian Brand about blazing new trails on California’s Central Coast, and his labels Le P’tit Paysan and La Marea.

On the blog for First Vine, Tom Natan dissects a study on pesticides in wine conducted by Que Choisir, a French consumer organization, in 2013. “Reading the study (in French) and some of the supporting documentation, I think the study is far more significant than the news reports indicate.”

“Andrea Calek Is a Lazy Bum and That’s Why His Wines Are So Good,” says Rachel Signer in Eater.

Rosé season is back! In Serious Drinks, Maryse Chevriere recommends 8 rosé wines to drink right now.

“Blind Book Review: Lettie Teague’s “Wine in Words”” on the HoseMaster.

The Rabobank Wine Quarterly report was just released, which showed that domestic wine outperformed imports as value rises faster than volume in the U.S. More findings and trends are included in Wines & Vines.

Wine Enthusiast picks the best sherry bars in the nation.

“For premium flyers, the era of mediocre vino is (mostly) over,” says Justin Bachman in Bloomberg.

Science has not really spoken on the study of big flavor wine, says Joe Roberts.

In Forbes, recommendations for hidden, ‘natural’ wine bars and restaurants in Paris.

Daily Wine News: Summer of Trocken?

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-15-2015

(Flickr: dpotera)

(Flickr: dpotera)

“I believe I speak for many fans of good Riesling when I say: “Sweet Jesus, thank the lord it’s over!”” In Wine Searcher, Jason Wilson reflects on the end of the Summer of Riesling campaign, and makes a case for drinking more trocken Riesling.

“Raise a toast to Madame Pommery,” says Bill Daley in the Chicago Tribune. “For it was she…who steered the world’s taste in sparkling wine from sweet to drier styles — a preference that stuck.”

As the natural wine movement enters its second generation, the techniques and principles that define it are changing. In Punch, Alice Feiring talks to some of natural wine’s icons about now-popular techniques and what they believe to be fad, or the way of the future.

“Is the current U.S. wine market the new “new normal” — can the recent upmarket shift in wine sales be sustained into the future?” Mike Veseth, the wine economist, explores the answer.

“Scientists show glass geometry controls where and how vapor rises from wine, influencing taste,” reports Jennifer Newton in Scientific American.

According to the Drinks Business, Rhône producer, Michel Chapoutier, has bought Beaujolais negociant La Maison Trénel.

In VinePair, Adam Teeter explores how China inflated a global bubble in fine wine and spirits — and then popped it.

Bon Appétit lists “7 Wine Bars You Need to Drink at Now.”

Daily Wine News: New York State of Wine

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 04-14-2015

NY-State-Terroir-and-Growing-Regions-MapIn the New York Post, Tom Wark shares his opinions on New York State’s “out-of-control” regulations concerning the wine industry. “It simply boggles the mind to think the authority would want to shut down a New York retailer for the crime of committing no crime at all.”

Wink Lorch notices the natural wine movement is spreading to Brazil in Purple Pages.

In Decanter, Andrew Jefford checks in on the Douro’s development and prosperity. “For what it’s worth, I’m convinced that the Douro has the potential to rival Bordeaux, Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Rioja and Napa as a table-wine region – it is a rare world ‘great’ – and that we will all realise as much in fifty years.”

In Grape Collective, Dorothy Gaiter profiles Gavin Chanin, “the youngest winemaker in Santa Barbara, and yet this is his 14th harvest.

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka spends a day with Andy Smith in his DuMOL vineyards of West Sonoma Coast and Green Valley.

In Wine Spectator, Robert Camuto profiles Tiziano Mazzoni, who is rising to become “Ghemme’s star for Nebbiolo.”

Jonathan Lipsmeyer chats with winemaker Olivier Clape about the changing faces of Cornas, and how Alsatian barrels ended up in the Clape cellar.

Nick Trend sets out to Alsace in search of “the world’s greatest white wines” in the Telegraph.

What do you really think of that wine? Ask your brain, says Erika Szymanski in Palate Press.