Daily Wine News: Serious Rosé

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-24-2018

(Flickr: andyket)

(Flickr: andyket)

Jon Bonné offers a guide to “not-crappy rosé” in Punch. “These more serious examples matter because, as the pink craze inevitably grows lukewarm, what will remain are rosés that linger in memory—that dare to be more than inoffensive.”

Jameson Fink also tackles the problems with pale rosé over on VinePair. “Will Americans explore the entire spectrum of rosé, embracing producers who make richer, deeper-colored wines? Obstacles are abundant.”

In Wine Enthusiast, Virginie Boone on Sonoma Coast’s new style of high-acid chardonnays, and recommends a few bottles to seek out.

Stephen Tanzer tastes through a vertical of Turley Zinfandel from the Hayne Vineyard from 1993-2015 and offers his thoughts on Vinous.

In Atlas Obscura, Rafaela Ferraz delves into the history of the Portuguese city of Boticas’ centuries-old tradition of making “wine of the dead.”

There’s a new cellar master at Taittinger. “Alexandre Ponnavoy has officially taken over as the new chef de cave at Champagne Taittinger,” reports the Drinks Business.

In SevenFifty Daily, winemakers discuss tips and best practices for packaging wine in cans.

Jim Gordon talks with Roger Nabedian, Gallo’s VP of premium wine, in Wines & Vines.

Daily Wine News: Rosé’s Challenges

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-23-2018

(Source: Wikimedia)

(Source: Wikimedia)

In the Drinks Business, Lauren Eads on the rosé revolution. “One of the biggest challenges for rosé is encouraging consumption outside of the summer months, while also exploring and proving its potential to age. The lack of men in the category is worth noting…”

Mary Winston Nicklin profiles Gérard Bertrand. “A former rugby star, Bertrand is today regarded as a pioneer in fine wine production in the Languedoc, helping to shatter the stereotype of the region’s wines as mass-market swill.”

“For Millennials, the exploration and discovery around wine does not have to be married to varieties or tradition.” In Wine Spectator, Emma Balter says the branding—not the grape variety—may be better at attracting millenials to a brand.

In Decanter, Ellie Douglas ponders the future of wine—drone delivery, wine vending machines, edible bottles and more.

“Without the farmer there would be no farm. There would be no food… Without the farmer, there would be no wine. Wine doesn’t just happen, a farmer has to make it happen.” On Terroir Review, Meg Houston Maker shares her keynote remarks for the Top Drop Vancouver conference.

Kelli White explores the role of oxygen in red wine making in Guild Somm.

Wine Spectator talks to Sweetbitter author Stephanie Danler about her novel’s TV adaptation and how wine helped her grow up.

Daily Wine News: Reconsider Burgundy

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-22-2018

Bottle of white Burgundy. (Wikimedia)

Bottle of white Burgundy. (Wikimedia)

“…now that warm summers are becoming increasingly common, we need to reboot our perceptions of Burgundian geography,” says Jancis Robinson. “In the old days we thought of Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, plus Corton-Charlemagne, as the source of all the finest white burgundy because it was in the best sites of these three villages of the Côte de Beaune that Chardonnay grapes most easily ripened. But climate change means that ripeness is no longer rare…”

In the Forward, Sadie R. Flateman reports on the changing map of Israel’s winemaking regions. “New viticultural areas may help clarify terminology, which can be a bit muffled around this area, where wine is currently labeled as many things, from simply “Jerusalem” and “Jerusalem Mountains” (Psagot) to “Judean Hills” (Shiloh Winery).”

In Decanter, Andrew Jefford on the identity of Costières de Nîmes. “It’s not Languedoc, and it’s not Provence, either.  It’s the Camargue.  Costières de Nîmes is the key wine-growing zone of Western Europe’s largest river delta…”

In Wines & Vines, Jim Boyce explores why American wine lags in the Chinese market and suggests ways to fix it.

The idea of a vigneron may be a distinctly French concept, but American pioneers are embodying Old World spirit and making the traditional practice their own. Wine Enthusiast profiles a handful of new American vignerons.

In Bloomberg, Guy Collins reports that Bordeaux 2017 wine prices are generally lower than the previous year.

Federico Carletti has ridden the rollercoaster of Tuscan wine over nearly four decades at Poliziano. Robert Camuto checks in with him in Wine Spectator.

In the New York Post, Lawrence Ferber visits Canada’s scenic Oliver Osoyoos wine region, part of British Columbia’s South Okanagan Valley.

Daily Wine News: Lodi’s Reputation

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-21-2018

(Source: Lodi Wines)

(Source: Lodi Wines)

“If talented winemakers love Lodi fruit, why does the region continue to struggle to shake its low-quality reputation?” In the San Francisco Chronicle, Esther Mobley reports on the increasingly diverse modern Lodi region, the future home of Sandlands and star winemaker Tegan Passalacqua. “If you explore, it’s clear: This is a very fine place to grow wine grapes.”

In Decanter, Hugh Johnson considers the times when your highly anticipated bottles end up a disappointment.

Margaret Rand reports on the vintage port market in Wine-Searcher. “Until now Vintage Port, for all its undoubted quality and its famous ability to improve with age – which should put it up there with Classed Growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy as a wine collector’s must-have – has lagged behind those wines.”

In Meininger’s, Keren Lavelle discovers Hatten Wines, a winery in Bali. “Demand both for table grapes and fermented rice beverages, for use in Balinese religious ceremonies, has been instrumental in the birth of Hatten Wines, and thus the creation of a wine industry in Indonesia.”

On the blog for First Vine, Tom Natan looks into the use of fungicides in vineyards. “Vineyards account for 80% of the total fungicide use in France, despite the low overall percentage of acreage of vineyards in total agricultural land use.”

This year’s Heart’s Delight charity wine auction raised $1.5 million for the American Heart Association, reports Wine Spectator.

In Grape Collective, David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars talks with Lisa Denning about the changes he has seen over the years and the challenges for young California winemakers today.

In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre offers three tips to help increase your enjoyment of wine.

Daily Wine News: Italy and Beyond

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-18-2018

Friuli landscape. (Source: Friuli Italian Wines)

Friuli landscape. (Source: Friuli Italian Wines)

In Vinous, Ian D’Agata covers Italy’s Friuli Venezia Giulia wine region. “You can look at Friuli Venezia Giulia as Italy’s mirror image to Piedmont. While Piedmont has numerous high-quality red wine grapes and only a few whites, Friuli Venezia Giulia is the exact opposite…”

“It’s hard to talk about Italian wines without thinking about Italian volcanoes.” In Forbes, Susan H. Gordon explores why Italy’s volcanoes matter to its wines.

“Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has entered into a lease to farm an approximately 7-acre parcel of Corton-Charlemagne owned by Domaine Bonneau du Martray,” reports Bruce Sanderson. “Aubert de Villaine, codirector of DRC, told Wine Spectator that the lease will start in November 2018 and “our first harvest will be 2019.””

Mary Holland on the sparkling wines of Istenič winery in Bizeljsko, Slovenia in VinePair. “In Slovenia, Istenič is what Moet & Chandon is in France. Walk into any wine shop in the country and Istenič bottles line the shelves. Open almost any restaurant wine list in Ljubljana and you’ll see Istenič emblazoned on the page in front of you.”

In Wine-Searcher, Oliver Styles responds to the criticism that followed Naked Wines ran a campaign that included, “don’t trust wine critic recommendations…”

In SevenFifty Daily, Peter Weltman explores the rise of winemakers embracing clay vessels around the world. “While historic wine regions are showing renewed interest in making wine in clay vessels, New World winemakers have also launched experiments.”

In the New York Times, Eric Asimov recommends 20 wines under $20 for summer.

Red Hook Winery in Brooklyn was busted for running an illegal moonshine operation.

Daily Wine News: Rosé, Invasive Species

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-17-2018

Rosé gummy bears. (Source: Sugarfina)

Rosé gummy bears. (Source: Sugarfina)

Has rosé gone too far? In Bloomberg, Elin McCoy tastes the latest invasive innovations in pink wine. “We now have rosé-flavored vodka, tequila, gin, rum, and sake; gummy bears; ice cream; vinegar; and hard seltzer. I’ve even tasted a pretty awful rosé doughnut…Does it feel as if we’re in the middle of a glut yet? My guess: We’re only just getting started.”

In Wines & Vines, Peter Mitham with a U.S. wine sales report for April. “While growth in table wine sales softened, rosé growth outpaced the category with sales in the past year rising 53%. Meanwhile, surging direct to consumer (DtC) saw both rosé and sparkling wine…moving in ever greater volumes from U.S. wineries to consumers.”

In Condé Nast Traveler, Jason Wilson highlights four underrated wine regions that he covered in his new book, Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey Through the World of Strange, Obscure and Underappreciated Wine.

After years of growing and selling grapes, California’s Sangiacomo family finally release their own brand, reports W. Blake Gray in Wine-Searcher.

The Drinks Business explores Turkey’s wine industry. “Establishing Turkey’s native grape varieties has to be the single element for which Kayra is most well known, promoting red grapes including the lighter Kalecik Karasi and heavy-weights Öküzgözü and Bogazkere as well as white grapes Narince and Emir.”

In Punch, Jon Bonné looks at how a new generation of restaurants is placing non-Western cuisine alongside serious wine programs.

In the World of Fine Wine, Nicolas Belfrage reviews Carla Capalbo’s book, Tasting Georgia: A Food and Wine Journey in the Caucasus.

In the Dallas News, Alfonso Cevola reports on the wineries breaking storytelling boundaries by marketing with augmented reality (AR) technology.

Mike Veseth, the wine economist, on how to unlock the market potential of Languedoc, Roussillon and the Loire Valley.

Daily Wine News: The Great Divide

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-16-2018

spilledwine“There is a sense that alongside economic success, globalisation has slowly forced the wine world toward a dull, crowd-pleasing conformity.” In the Guardian, Stephen Buranyi dissects the biggest split in the wine world: natural wine vs. the modern wine industry. “Natural wine can’t remain segregated in its own market for ever. There are natural winemakers who want to expand, and mainstream winemakers – struggling with what a 2016 industry report called the “long-term issue of youth recruitment” – eager to learn from natural wine’s popularity with young people who are as interested in craft beer and spirits as they are in wine.”

In the San Francisco Chronicle, Peter Fish on the natural philosophy behind winemaker Avi Deixler’s Absentee Winery in Point Reyes Station, CA. “Deixler’s on the frontier, making wine in a region not known for wine. His carignan is pure, intense and a little wild.”

“Wine producers, buyers and sellers, writers as well as wine drinkers all continue to describe Willamette Valley pinot noir as Burgundian, even as the soil differences are black and white.” In Wine & Spirits Magazine, Joshua Greene reports on how Burgundians working in Oregon are coming to terms with the Willamette Valley, where there’s vastly different ground than their home turf.

In Wines & Vines, Andrew Adams reports on the thoughts experts shared about future trends at Wine Market Council’s annual meeting in Napa.

“Naked Wines’ CEO Rowan Gormley has publicly apologized on Twitter for marketing material that told consumers not to trust wine critics,” reports Felicity Carter in Meininger’s.

On the blog for Tablas Creek, Jason Haas explores how “organic” and “biodynamic” are easily confused by consumers.

Grape Collective talks to Franko Kozlović about how his family winery succeeded amidst the chaos of Croatia’s political troubles and what makes Malvasia Istriana one of Croatia’s great wines.

In the Los Angeles Times, Patrick Comiskey suggests cool white wines from hot climates.

Daily Wine News: Randall Grahm’s Quest

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-15-2018

Randall Grahm.

Randall Grahm.

In the New Yorker, Adam Gopnik profiles Randall Grahm and reports on Popelouchum, his quest to create a truly American wine. “There are people who think that Grahm is crazy and people who think he’s a genius, and the people who think he’s a genius are also the ones most inclined to think he’ll fail.”

“A “disastrous” vintage has left Champagne producers faced with making wine from half-rotten grapes, while excessive herbicide use is putting the future of the famous region at risk.” In Wine-Searcher, Caroline Henry reports on the many challenges the Champagne region is facing.

In Bloomberg, Devon Pendleton shares how, four decades after her father bought Chateau Margaux, Corinne Mentzelopoulos has built the vineyard into a billion-dollar business.

In the Verge, Alan Goldfarb looks at how West Coast winemakers are adapting to a changing climate, and how commercials labs are working to understand and reduce smoke taint.

Everybody’s talking about storytelling as a way to sell wine. Robert Joseph suggests a more effective approach in Meininger’s

What will it take for Texas wines to be fully embraced by the broad market? Dale Robertson shares his opinon in the Houston Chronicle.

The Drinks Business chronicles the steady release of Bordeaux 2017, which picked up again Monday morning.

Tom Mullen on what makes the wines of the Canary Islands so unique in Forbes.

Daily Wine News: Revitalized Rioja

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-14-2018

(Source: Wikimedia)

(Source: Wikimedia)

Jancis Robinson on Rioja’s revitalized image. “It’s exciting that the region is feeling so confident, and that it seems to have at least partly addressed some of the criticisms so recently levelled at it. I just hope that the best traditional houses… will continue to provide us with fastidiously long oak-aged blends that are some of the longest-living wines in the world.”

Wines & Vines reports that Koerner Rombauer, the founder of Rombauer Vineyards and a beloved figure in the Napa Valley, died on May 10. He was 83.

“Under his leadership, the Rombauer Vineyards brand became practically synonymous with California Chardonnay. After the winery’s founding in 1980, it helped popularize Chardonnay made in a rich, buttery style.” Esther Mobley pens an obituary for Koerner Rombauer in the San Francisco Chronicle.

In the World of Fine Wine, Ella Lister reports on the 2017 Bordeayx en primeur. “Pricing for the 2017 vintage, rightly, will be as heterogenous as the quality of the wines themselves. For 2017 was not an obvious vintage in which to make a great wine, as 2015 and 2016 were.”

South Africa’s drought is so severe that Cape Town has faced the pospect of running out of water. In Meininger’s, Michael Fridjhon looks at what this has meant for nearby wine regions.

In Vinous, Josh Raynolds shares his thoughts of the 2016 Northern Rhône whites.

Is Bordeaux’s reign as the king of wines over? David Williams says its time to see out future classics from elsewhere in the Guardian.

Emma Balter looks at the evolution of the rosé bottle in Wine Spectator.

Daily Wine News: Vintage Predictions

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-11-2018

Bottle of German Silvaner. (Wikimedia)

Bottle of German Silvaner. (Wikimedia)

“In the late 1980s, the Princeton economist Orley Ashenfelter found that he could predict the quality of Bordeaux red wine vintages based on characteristics such as the temperature and rainfall during the harvest year… Using just these variables, he was able to account for more than 80 percent of the price variation for vintages in the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.” In Bloomberg, Peter R. Orszag looks at one economist’s method to predict a vintage’s quality using only statistics, and explores why it hasn’t yet caught on.

In the New York Times, Eric Asimov makes the case for silvaner, “a grape and a wine that has few champions and could use one badly.”

In Wine Enthusiast, Layla Schlack highlights four mother-daughter winemaking teams in Oregon, Virginia, California, and Bordeaux.

Three bottles of 1774 vin jaune from the Jura region—among the oldest in the world— are up for auction, reports Kim Willsher in the Guardian.

New Jersey’s first canned wine, a rosé from William Heritage Winery, makes its debut this weekend. I share the details over at New Jersey Monthly.

Sophia Bennett wonders if gamay could be Oregon wine’s next great grape in the Register-Guard. “I think that pinot noir will always be the grape that’s associated with Oregon, but I also think there’s room for other grapes to find their way here…”

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague tried buying wines based on bottle shape and found few as interesting as the bottles they came in.

Amanda Barnes details what you need to know about Rioja’s new regulations in SevenFifty Daily.