As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I explain why sometimes, trips to wine country are so inspirational that lives are forever changed.

Comic Books and Thoroughbreds, Inspired by Wine

Outside the Bay Area, few wine enthusiasts realize that California’s wine scene is incredibly welcoming.

This is understandable; we see our favorite winemakers on the covers of magazines and struggle to contain our excitement when new wines hit the market. So expecting to meet any big name in the flesh seems as fantastical as expecting to meet Brad Pitt or Angelina Jolie on a trip to Hollywood.

But it’s not. And sometimes, these encounters are so inspirational that lives are forever changed.

Check out the rest of the piece on Grape Collective!

Shane Finley.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I profile several winemakers who traded in their desk jobs for a life in the vineyards.

Trading a Desk Job for One in the Vineyards

Finding Shane Finley was easy.

Via email, we planned to meet for lunch at Bourbon Steak in Washington, D.C., a restaurant that’s housed at the Four Seasons. While the steakhouse is known for having one of the best wine lists in the city, it’s typically filled with tee-totaling lobbyists and power brokers during the day. So when I spotted a redheaded thirty-something with unkempt hair wearing jeans and an untucked flannel, I figured it was Shane.

I was right.

Finley stopped wearing suits in 2001. That summer, he quit his job as an insurance underwriter in Manhattan to make wine. Both his parents thought the move was a bit nuts, as his career was progressing nicely. They hoped that after a few months on the edge of bankruptcy, he’d get the wine bug out of his system.

But after interning during harvest in Sonoma, Finley was hooked. So he headed off to Australia to work another harvest and then to France’s Rhone Valley. When he returned to the United States in 2003, there was no turning back. He quickly built an impressive resume, and in 2006, he launched his own label with the release of three distinct Syrahs. He called it Shane, naturally.

Finley’s decision was certainly gutsy. But in wine, this career trajectory is hardly unique.

Check out the rest of the piece on Grape Collective!

Lemonade (wikipedia).

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I compare wine to lemonade. As I explain, only wine is capable of telling a story and offering an honest reflection of time and place.

Great Wines Tell an Honest Story

Spring has finally arrived. Lemonade stands will start popping up soon. And when the mercury rises, it’s nearly impossible to pass one without making a purchase.

Of course, neighborhood kids would never dare charge more than a dollar or two for a cup of lemonade. But what if a budding entrepreneur asked for $20? Would you still make the purchase?

Probably not. But if offered a glass of great wine, few oenophiles would hesitate to spend such a sum. Many would be willing to pay $20 for just a two-ounce pour.

Obviously, wine is different from lemonade. But what makes it so special?

Michael Madrigale, one of the nation’s top sommeliers, recently suggested two answers to that question.

He was visiting San Francisco from New York, where he directs the wine program at several of Daniel Boulud’s restaurants. Madrigale was speaking at 18 Reasons, a nonprofit that focuses on the relationship between food and community.

The topic? What sommeliers drink when spending their own money.

Many wine enthusiasts envy sommeliers, since they routinely open and taste bottles most of us could never afford. And they get to hang out with fascinating winemakers from across the world. But when they’re home, sommeliers are just like the rest of us — fully aware of budgets and priorities but still looking for something great.

Check out the rest of the piece on Grape Collective!

Flickr, craig.camp.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I explain that there’s more to California wine than Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. And I highlight the movement that seeks to reclaim California’s diversity.

Reclaiming California’s Diversity

If you ask a typical wine consumer to imagine a California red, they’ll almost certainly think of Cabernet Sauvignon. If you ask that same consumer to imagine a white, they’ll almost certainly think of Chardonnay.

This is understandable. More than 500,000 acres of California farmland are dedicated to wine grapes, and Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are the most widely planted. More than a quarter of the state’s red wine grape plantings are Cabernet Sauvignon. And more than half of all white wine grape plantings are Chardonnay.

Once upon a time, however, California’s landscape was much more diverse. And thanks to a group of renegade vintners, California is reclaiming this diversity — and producing more and more wines that are reminiscent of a bygone era.

Check out the rest of the piece on Grape Collective!

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I look at the latest data to contend that today’s wine drinkers are an adventurous bunch.

America’s Unquenchable Thirst for Wine and Exploration 

“The wine world is a big, fabulously diverse place, and arguably the greatest pleasure that oenophilia offers is the pleasure of discovery—of finding new grapes, regions, and wines.”

These words appear in The Wine Savant, a new book from Michael Steinberger, the former wine writer for Slate and a current columnist for Men’s Journal.

He’s right. The pleasure of discovery is what drives wine enthusiasts. Those of us who obsess over wine aren’t just looking for something tasty; we’re looking for an experience.

This concept is firmly taking root in America’s wine culture. And it belies the notion that Americans are intimidated by wine.

Books with titles like Wine For Dummies and Great Wine Made Simple line bookstore shelves. The media perpetuates this assumption, eagerly reporting on every study that “proves” oenophiles are full of baloney.

But the numbers tell a different story. New data from the Wine Market Council, an independent, nonprofit trade group, show that Americans are increasingly comfortable with wine. And we’re thirstier than ever before.

Check out the rest of the piece on Grape Collective!

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I wonder why most consumers, even if they’re the type to obsess about the origins of their food, often don’t care about where their wine comes from or how it was farmed.

Bridging the Whole Foods Gap

“Although modern consumers are far more concerned about the origins of their food than they once were, keenly eyeing the source of that organic spinach, their concern goes out the window when it comes to wine.”

These words appear in a discussion about affordability in The New California Wine, the just-released book from San Francisco Chronicle wine editor Jon Bonné. It’s what he calls the Whole Foods gap.

As he explains, “most consumers, even if they are the type to shop at that particular upscale grocery store and obsess about the origins of their food, simply couldn’t care less about where their wine comes from or how it was farmed.”

The numbers back this up.

Consider organic food sales. They’re soaring. In 2012, according to government data, sales of organic food increased 7.4 percent over the previous year — about double the growth rate for food overall. Since 1990, the amount of U.S. farmland dedicated to organic crops and livestock has increased fourfold.

Organic meat and produce often cost twice as much as their conventional counterparts. But Americans are beginning to take an interest in where their food comes from. So they’re moving away from industrialized calories and toward production that eschews pesticides and values sustainability, even if it means paying more.

With wine, however, Americans still drink cheap, without giving much thought to sourcing or production. The average bottle of wine in the United States sells for just $6.22. Nine in ten bottles sold cost less than $12.

Look at Whole Foods. While shopping for free-range chicken, cage-free eggs, and artisanal cheese, consumers are presented with stacks of wine from Three Wishes. Retailing for $3, it’s produced for Whole Foods by the Wine Group, the nation’s second-largest wine company.

Check out the rest of the piece on Grape Collective!

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I highlight “In Pursuit of Balance,” an annual wine event that applauds the California winemakers who eschew ripeness and power in favor of restraint and elegance.

Celebrating Balance in Pinot Noir

“If a Pinot Noir is overwhelmed with fruit — or, indeed, by any element, like oak, fruit extraction, fruit ripeness, or alcohol — you’re going to lessen the possibility that the wine can express essential place. And for me, Pinot Noir is all about essential place.”

If any grape demands contemplation, it’s Pinot Noir. The great ones translate time and place, clearly expressing the characteristics of their vintage and the soils and climate in which they’re grown.

So I wasn’t surprised to hear these words from Jasmine Hirsch, as her father, David, planted what is considered one of America’s top Pinot Noir vineyards nearly 35 years ago.

We were chatting about an annual wine event she launched with Rajat Parr, a celebrity sommelier, in 2011. Dubbed “In Pursuit of Balance,” it applauds the California winemakers who eschew ripeness and power in favor of restraint and elegance.

The event has helped counteract the notion that California only makes fruit bombs. And it’s brought attention to some of California’s top Pinot Noir producers.

Check out the rest of the piece at Grape Collective.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I explain why in 2014, I plan to dig deep into a classic wine region and also explore a part of the world that doesn’t get much attention.

In 2014, Drink Something Old and Something New 

January is the perfect time to reflect on the previous year and make resolutions for the new one. For those of us who take wine seriously, it’s smart to include wine in our New Year’s resolutions.

This year, I plan to drink something old and something new. In other words, I’ll dig deep into a classic wine region and also explore a part of the world that doesn’t get much attention. Whether you’re a veteran oenophile or a budding wine enthusiast, following this plan will surely heighten your appreciation of wine.

Consider my consumption habits.

For my palate, America’s most exciting Pinot Noir comes from the “extreme” Sonoma Coast, a series of remote hillside vineyards in northern Sonoma County just miles from the Pacific Ocean. My favorite examples, which come from producers like Peay, Hirsch, and Littorai, combine all the elements I look for in Pinot — rich, ripe aromas of cherries along with fresh herbs and earth, together with lively acidity. So regardless of the season or the meal, these tend to be my go-to wines.

Such complacency is easy to understand; we’re creatures of habit. But it’s silly. The world of wine is infinite. And when it comes to Pinot Noir, Burgundy wrote the book. So this year, I hope to finally get my head around this legendary French wine region. I want to learn about its history, memorize the vineyards and producers my friends obsess over, and taste as much as I can.

Discovering a classic wine region should be on every oenophile’s list of New Year’s resolutions. If you’re fond of Washington State Merlot, try some classic, Right Bank Bordeaux. If you enjoy Riesling, stock your cellar with wines from Germany’s Mosel River Valley. And don’t just drink the classics, learn about them. It’s the classics that inspire New World vintners.

Next year, I also plan on embracing obscurity.

Check out the rest of the piece at Grape Collective.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are now hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I stand up for big house Champagne.

Big Love for Big Champagne

Wine writers love explaining why Champagne and other sparkling wines deserve a spot at the dinner table all year long.

Good sparklers are characterized by vibrant acidity and freshness, which help them cut through spicy meals, complement savory food, and elevate even the simplest of dishes. Plus, they’re delicious every night of the week, regardless of whether there’s anything to celebrate.

But we inevitably write about this topic in late December. After all, Champagne houses and retailers alike spend millions each year to convince us that New Year’s Eve is best enjoyed with a glass of sparkling wine. And marketing matters.

The focus of these columns is just as predictable. Writers who cater to the everyday consumer offer tips on how to find value, steering readers toward sparkling alternatives like Cremant de Bourgogne, Cava, and Prosecco. After all, Champagne isn’t cheap.

Writers who cater to a more sophisticated audience laud “grower” Champagnes. Made by the farmers who grow the grapes, these wines have exploded in popularity over the past few years and offer a refreshing alternative to big brands like Moet & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. Plus, just as food consumers feel better about purchasing fruit at the local farmers’ market, wine consumers feel better about supporting grower-producers.

Consequently, few writers champion the brands you can easily find at wine shops across the country. This is unfortunate. While Champagne’s big brands aren’t trendy right now, the top producers deliver consistent, high quality wines year after year. And their offerings have never been better.

Check out the rest of the piece at Grape Collective.

Flickr, John-Morgan.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are now hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I offer some ideas on how to find great wines without breaking the bank.

For Value, Avoid the Familiar

‘Tis the season to party.

With 2014 just a few weeks away, holiday party season is in full swing. So hosts everywhere are assembling menus, fretting about guest lists, and blowing their budgets on decorations.  Fortunately, selecting wines doesn’t have to be stressful or expensive.

Just avoid the familiar. As New York University economics professor Karl Storchmann recently explained to Food & Wine, “[The market] adds a premium for certain places or grapes.”

Consider Champagne.

Under European Union trade laws, wine can only be sold as “Champagne” if it comes from the Champagne region of France and is made in the “traditional method,” which is a very expensive process. While real Champagne is a treat, it’s expensive — even “budget” options cost upwards of $35 per bottle.

Like Champagne, America’s iconic wine regions are pricey. Napa Valley makes some exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. But it’s nearly impossible to find a decent bottle for less than $35. Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley produces some lovely Chardonnay, but most cost $25 or more.

The list goes on. Trophy regions are almost always expensive.

Fortunately, the world is awash in affordable, great-tasting wine. As Storchmann explained, just as some regions come with a built-in surcharge, others come with a built-in discount. Finding such wines is as easy as opening up your palate to unheralded regions.

Check out the rest of the piece at Grape Collective.