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Weekly Wine Roundup: Clos Rougeard and The Donald!
Posted by Wine Reviews | Posted on 01-16-2012
| Posted inCheck out what the Terroirists drank this week, including highlights from Clos Rougeard and a wine with ties to Donald Trump.
Matt Latuchie
I decided to crack open a 2005 Burgundy this week — despite knowing they’re years and years away from maturity. I opened at 2005 François Parent Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets and it took a couple hours to really open up. Compared to other Volnays I’ve had (from other vintages), this was darker and meatier than what I was expecting. Typically, I think of Volnay as feminine, elegant Pinot Noir but this was more masculine and weighty. This was a great example of a bottle of wine that the last drop was by far the best.
As a part of the Wine Library TV Forum Producer of the Month thread I reached for a 2008 Ridge Geyserville. I’ve never been a huge fan of zinfandel, but given the producer and its designation, I was expecting a treat. Sadly, this was incredibly disappointing. The oak and alcohol were just plain distracting. It had some underlying blueberry and tart cherry tones, but the fruit was essentially hidden behind the cream, charcoal, and mocha tones that the oak gave the wine. After drinking this I still feel like I don’t know what the fruit in a 2008 Ridge Geyserville zinfandel tastes like — all I’ve tasted is oak.
David White
The week started with some Rhone varietals. On Sunday, I opened the 2007 Novy Family Wines Syrah Page Nord. Like most Novy wines, it was obviously well made – ripe fruit, good structure, nice balance, etc. But the wine seemed sad. There was nothing bright or lively or compelling about it.
On Monday, I opened a different Novy — a half bottle of the 2007 Novy Family Wines Syrah Russian River Valley. This wine continues to improve, and delivers an incredible value. Dark fruits, smoky meat, maple syrup – just delicious.
On Tuesday, over dinner at Proof – one of DC’s better wine bars – I ordered a bottle of the 2008 Jemrose Foggy Knoll Vineyard Grenache. This was my first Jemrose, and I was floored. The wine was big but not dense and ripe but not jammy – and it had great acidity. I can’t wait to seek out more wines from this producer.
On Wednesday, I attended an epic tasting of Clos Rougeard – the Loire estate that’s universally considered one of the top wine producers in France, and that only a “lucky few” will ever get to taste.
The night opened with three Champagnes. The first two were from Nicolas Mallart – the 2004 Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Extra Brut Les Chaillots and the 2005 Blanc de Noirs 1er Cru Les Francs de Pieds Vieille Vignes. Both were delightful, but the Blanc de Blancs really stood out — incredible focus, bright fruit, intense minerality and wonderful florals. We then opened a 1985 Krug. Wow. I don’t have much experience with aged Champagne, but I couldn’t get enough of this wine — subtle effervescence, beautiful mouthfeel, seductive aromas of tropical fruits, sweet, baked apples, hazelnuts. Awesome.
We then opened three 2008 Chablis from William Fevre: The 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre; Grand Cru Les Clos; and the Grand Cru Les Preuses. I really loved the MdT – bright citrus fruits, sea shells, salinity, just a perfect Chablis.
Finally, we opened five Clos Rougeards: the 2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg; the 2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux; the 2005 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny “Clos”; 2006 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny “Clos”; and the 2006 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux.
Suffice it to say that I’ve seen the light – all of the wines were wonderful and showed just how delicious Cabernet Franc can be when grown in the right region and made by the right producer. The ’04 Le Bourg and the ‘06 “Clos” were my two favorites – the ’04 for its enchanting combination of gray rocks and flowers; the ’06 for its incredibly seductive nose. While obviously young, the ’06 was unlike any wine I’d ever put my nose in — spice and licorice and bright, tart fruits and wild herbs, just fantastic.
Warren Leonard, a friend who works at Weygandt Wines, shared his notes on WineBerserkers.
The week finished with a 2004 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard. I knew that the wine would be a treat – I’ve always been a fan of Williams Selyem, and the Peay Vineyard might be my favorite for Pinot. But I was still surprised by the wine, mainly because it tasted shockingly young. The wine opened with tart cherries and lavender, and became bigger and darker – showing cola and dark cherries — as the night went on. Aged characteristics were nearly impossible to find – if I had been told this wine was from ’07 or ’08, I would have believed it. Read the rest of this entry »