Sommelier Interview: Jannae Lizza & Passionfish

Posted by | Posted in Interviews | Posted on 05-11-2011

som·me·lier noun \ˌsə-məl-ˈyā\

For many outside of the wine world, even the pronunciation of that word strikes fear and intimidation. However, these restaurant wine stewards have the potential to elevate our dining experience to a new height…suggesting wines we may never have considered, pairing the flavors and textures of our meal with a perfect or surprising match, and perhaps teaching us something exciting and new. To get to know these talented professionals and their craft, we’re introducing a new feature to Terroirist — the bi-weekly sommelier interview.

As you can probably tell from the picture on the right, our first guest sommelier is not what some might envision when thinking of a typical, formal (read: stuffy) sommelier. Jannae Lizza and her wine list at Passionfish in Pacific Grove, California, caught our eye for two reasons — (1) it includes hard-to-snag, amazing (“absolutley insane” as fellow Terroirist, David, put it) wines that you’ll have a tough time sampling unless you have patience and your name on a mailing list, and (2) it prices its wine at RETAIL – yes, that’s right. This combination enables visitors to Passionfish to try wines they may not be able to try anywhere else at prices they can actually afford.

Jannae has been with Passionfish for 15 years, starting out as a hostess at the restaurant, and now serving as wine director and general manager. She’s energetic, passionate, and a real teacher/coach when it comes to wine (e.g., she makes crossword puzzles for her staff to help them get to know the wines on the menu!).  Read more about Jannae and her wine philosophy below. And feel free to drool over a sample Passionfish wine list here.

When and how did you fall in love with wine?

I was fortunate enough to take a beginning wine appreciation class from then pre-Master Sommelier Alpana Singh. Prior to that class, I was curious about wine but the subject matter seemed complicated and daunting. Alpana’s energy and passion was an inspiration. I felt like she was breaking the stereotypical ‘sommelier’ mold; she was young, female, and she had an engaging sense of humor about the subject. In our last class we tasted a ’95 Nine Popes from Barossa Valley. I loved the wine, and the winemaker’s humorous play on words. That was my “aha” moment. I couldn’t wait to go back to work and ask to have the wine added to our list so I could share it with our guests.

How’d you end up a sommelier?

I think it was just a natural progression of being raised in a family that placed a lot of value on the enjoyment of sitting down and sharing a meal together. I was taught a truly satisfying meal consists of good food, good wine, and good company. Once I was old enough to drink wine, and in the position to suggest it to others dinning, it only made sense to learn as much as I could to help others enjoy a meal at its fullest potential.

What type of training or experience prepared you to become a sommelier?

Reading, reading, reading! Reading everything and anything on the subject. On the sensory side, the most beneficial training I participated in was the series of sensory evaluation classes offered by UC Davis Extension. The experience was invaluable and I would take those classes again in a heartbeat! I also passed the first level exam for the Court of Master Sommeliers but I left it at that. I found that I craved more of an educational platform than a testing platform.

How’d you end up at your current job?

I wanted to be a pastry chef and I applied at hoping to work in the kitchen. I was hired as a host. Here I am 15 years later. I hosted, served, and now I’m the wine director and general manager. What can I say, I’m hooked on the wine and our retail pricing philosophy!

Tell us something interesting about your wine program.

Obviously our retail pricing policy is interesting. We want a bottle of wine to be enjoyed with every meal and at an affordable price. Wine isn’t just something to splurge on for a special occasion. Our pricing policy allows guests to experiment and to try something they wouldn’t normally try because of the price tag.

What’s interesting behind the scenes is the education program I’ve created for the staff. My goal is to make the subject of wine fun and a comfortable part of conversation. I maintain tasting notes for all 400+ wines and create weekly homework based on the interests of the staff. I create worksheets, crossword puzzles, and games. I basically want my staff to leave every night, knowing something about wine they didn’t know earlier that day.

If you could only pick one bottle, what would you order off your own list — and why? In case it makes a difference, pretend you’re not paying for it.

Cedric Bouchard’s Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs “Les Ursules.” His wines are beautiful, precise, and against the norm for the region. One parcel, one vintage, one grape. I still think about the first time I tasted his wines. It was another one of those “aha” moments when a wine just takes your breath away and leaves you speechless.

What’s the best value on your list?

My entire list!

Forget about your wine list. What wines are you most excited about right now? And how come?

Honestly, if I’m excited about a wine it’s on my list! And I’m not satisfied until I have it on my list. I can’t imagine enjoying or being inspired by a wine that I wouldn’t want to share with my guests. Every time I’m on the floor talking with a guest or training the staff, I have something to be excited about!

Who is the most famous person you’ve ever served — and what did they order?

We’ve served the occasional movie star, but I’d have to say the most “famous” people I’ve served are my guests during the Pebble Beach Food & Wine event held here on the Monterey Peninsula every year. There’s nothing like having your tables filled with top Sommeliers and Master Sommeliers from around the world all in one turn. The energy in the restaurant is electric, Champagne is flowing, intense blind tasting competitions between tables are occurring. Everyone at the top of my profession, that I admire, is under one roof, enjoying my wine list, and themselves!

What do you like to drink?

I love bright whites: Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Chablis, Ribolla and anything sparkling, of course! For red wine I prefer cooler climate expressions of Syrah, elegant Pinot Noir, Plousard, Mondeuse, and I recently fell in love with Foradori’s Teroldego. I could go on and on…

Do you enjoy beer? What about hard liquor?

Absolutely! There is nothing like a refreshing beer after a long day of tasting, it’s like a Calgon bath for your palate. I’m embarrassed to say my current guilty pleasure is Stiegl-Radler. As far as liquor, I’m happiest with a cocktail that includes bitters and whisky.

What’s the most challenging situation you’ve been in or request you’ve received as a sommelier?

For some reason our retail pricing leaves some guests with the impression that I will sell my most highly allocated wines, unopened to go, like a wine shop. Some guests are relentless with their bargaining tactics. I’ve found the bigger the smile the easier the words “no” and “I’m sorry” are accepted!

What’s most rewarding about your job?

The most rewarding aspect of my job is mentoring a person’s palate. I love to watch my staff’s palate evolve and their knowledge grow. A number of my former staff members have gone on to pursue careers in the wine industry. It’s incredibly rewarding to know that I had a part in inspiring them in their career choice.

I also take pleasure in educating and inspiring guests to try something new, or move a bit out of their comfort zone with wine. It’s common for me to run into a customer around town and have them tell me about a new wine or pairing they tried. Knowing that I have inspired someone’s enthusiasm about food and wine is an awesome feeling!

What’s least rewarding about your job?

Occasionally having to remind myself that I’m not a curator for a wine museum. The wines I buy are there to sell! There is a circle of life that comes with buying wine. I read about it somewhere and become intrigued. I go on a quest to source it, taste it, and receive an allocation for it. Sometimes this process can take years. I receive a few prized bottles, and before they even have time to settle in, they are out on a table, and instantly 86’d! Sometimes that’s hard for me, but in the end it means I have a new bottle seek to out, and the cycle begins again…

If you weren’t a sommelier, what would you be doing?

A pastry chef, a librarian, or part of a pack of wild gypsies that follow the MotoGP circuit around Europe!

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