Wine Reviews: Troon Vineyard

Posted by | Posted in Wine Reviews | Posted on 05-13-2017


Credit: Troon Vineyard

Southern Oregon is home to some gorgeous wines. Case in point: Troon Vineyard. Dick Troon first planted vines in Applegate Valley back in 1972, and after selling his grapes to other winemakers for years, he decided to build a winery and make his own wines. In 2003, local businessman and wine collector Larry Martin took control of the winery, replanted to some new varieties, and built a new winery and tasting room.

Under the guidance of General Manager Craig Camp and Winemaker Steve Hall, Troon now produces an array of different wines, from Vermentino and Riesling to red blends, Tannat, Zinfandel and Cabernet. In the cellar, Troon focuses on indigenous yeasts, little to no new oak, foot-trodden grapes, and the result are crisp, vibrant, complex wines with deep fruit and rich non-fruit complexity.

Below are my notes on four of Troon’s new releases, which were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.

2014 Troon Vineyard Vermentino - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $25
Light gold color. Aromas of limes and kiwi topped in lilies, orange blossom, honey, sea salt and nougat. Creamy texture on the palate, lots of body but it’s packed with zesty acidity, and the combination is precise and clean. Lemon curd, kiwi and lime topped in salted almond, cut flowers, honey and sea salt. Bold but so bright. A delicious Oregonian take on Vermentino, this is aged for a year on the lees in old French oak. (90 points IJB)

2016 Troon Vineyard Riesling Whole Grape Ferment - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $20
Golden/orange color. What a cool aromatic display: honeyed tea, apricot, orange marmalade, nettle, honeysuckle, salted almond. On the palate, this is medium-bodied with brisk acid and a waxy but zesty texture. Orange peel, apricot and cinnamon-spiced apple play off of saline, chalk dust and wild green herbs notes. It’s damned delicious, loaded with minerality and salinity of a beautiful Riesling but shows the complex, wild notes of a skin-contact white wine. This is something else. (93 points IJB)

2014 Troon Vineyard Tannat Estate - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $45
Rich purple color. Nose: tart black currant, blackberry jam, anise, black pepper, menthol, charcoal pit — a lot going on here, the aromas need time (and a good decant) to show fully. Palate is dark and saucy with sturdy tannic grip but moderate acidity, which reigns the wine in and keeps the mouth watering. Tart blackberry and blueberry fruit, concentrated but still a bit of tanginess to it, backed up by loads of roasted herbs, charcoal pit, loamy soil, graphite. A lot to unpack in the cellar, but this is a beautiful wine. (92 points IJB)

2014 Troon Vineyard M*T Reserve - Oregon, Southern Oregon, Applegate Valley
SRP: $50
Rich purple color. Nose of rich black currant, plums and tart blueberry, with charred herbs, iron, graphite, potting soil and violets. On the palate, this is full-bodied, with sturdy tannins but a silky feel with moderate acidity. Dark plum, tart blackberry, black currant, the fruit is laced with savory herbs, black pepper, iron, deep minerals and crushed pencils. Rich and bold in flavor yet tangy and vibrant throughout. Gorgeous now but should be even better in 3-5 years. Co-fermented Tannat and Malbec aged 18 months in old French oak. (92 points IJB)

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