“Connoisseurs consider processed wines the enological equivalent of processed foods, if not worse. The natural winemaker Anselme Selosse maintains that chemical futzing “lobotomizes the wine. But they are wrong,” says Bianca Bosker, who pens a defense of mass-market wines in the New York Times. “These maligned bottles have a place. The time has come to learn to love unnatural wines.”
Alfonso Cevola reflects on gateway wines. “Don’t worry about how you got here. If Barefoot brought you, so be it. If Gaja was your gateway, count yourself lucky (and pecuniarily propitious). We are overwhelmed with commercially produced, industrialized wine. And as well, we are admonished, regularly, by influencers, to only place pure, organic, special stuff into the temples that are our bodies. But you have to start – somewhere.”
In the Los Angeles Times, Natalie Kitroeff and Geoffrey Mohan report on the desperate labor shortage California winemakers and farmers after facing after Trump’s immigration crackdown.
Jancis Robinson takes a journey to Mexican wine country. “Locals may hate the comparison but the Valle de Guadalupe reminded me of nothing more than a slightly untidy Napa Valley.”
In Grape Collective, Anthony Lynch, son of pioneer importer Kermit Lynch discusses joining the family business, natural wine, and growing up around iconic winemakers.
In Meininger’s, Jeff Siegel explores the slowdown of the U.S. wine boom.
Stephen Tanzer on the 2014 red Burgundies in Vinous: “this is a lovely classic midweight vintage with real éclat—the sixth or seventh best of the past 25 years…”
In Wine-Searcher, Margaret Rand shares her thoughts of the 2015 Bordeaux wines.