A Brief History of Wine at Blandy’s: Exploring Madeira (Part 2/2)

Posted by | Posted in Grape Adventures | Posted on 03-31-2014

Blandy's Lodge - 1If Madeira wine seems to exist out of time, so too does it complicate our conventional thinking about space. The history of the wine is the history of travel, colonial expansion, and the dream of the Edenic return.

Madeira is first a product of the vast spaces in between the vineyard and the table; it is a product of the open sea. Indeed, the peculiar qualities of the wine were so elusive that it was long assumed that the ocean voyage itself created the maderized effect. Owing to this belief, barrels were sent on long voyages to the New World in preparation for their appearance in British drawing rooms; these were the so-called “vinho da roda” (round trip wines).

Eventually, more budget minded producers developed technologies to imitate the ocean voyage — mechanical contraptions used to loll the wine back and forth. We now know that the darkening, oxidative effects of maderization occur through exposure to air and heat, and the process, called the canteiro system, all happens on the island.

But even this edenic island seems set adrift, no place at all, floating like a ship between the Old and New Worlds.

Of course, Madeira’s origins are now clear enough, and the story of the wine begins with vines rooted in the islands’ complex and dramatic terroir, which plunges from cool mountain heights to more consistently warm plateaus along the sea. The soil on the island, rich in minerals like iron and phosphorous, gives the wine its characteristic acidity. It also gives rise to another of the island’s major draws as a tourist destination: abundant, exotic, and diverse flora and fauna.

Perhaps no one place is as important to Madeira wine as Blandy’s Wine Lodge in Funchal. When I arrived at the timeless lodge and stepped into a library of history’s best bottles of the wine, I knew I had found the heart, the main nerve. Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Authentic Drinking

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 03-31-2014

miller-high-life-logo“These alternative nebbiolos have long been a sort of secret of those who prize the grape, though not a carefully guarded one.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov sampled 20 bottles of Nebbiolo from Valtellina and various regions in Piedmont outside the Langhe.

In Punch, Steven Grubbs visits the Daytona 500 to explore authentic drinking.

Eater’s Ryan Sutton wonders if Per Se is charging America’s highest corkage fee.

Spain now produces more wine than any other nation on earth. And “Spanish wine producers just cannot persuade young Spaniards to drink wine.” So for “wine lovers outside Spain,” according to Jancis Robinson, this is great news.

The Hippest Winery In Mexico Is Made Of Recycled Boats.” On NPR, Maanvi Singh has the details.

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague explores “The Wine Lovers’ Chicken Conundrum.”

“Not lowest common denominator. Not factory wine. Wines that can sit on your dinner table with pride.” Jon Bonné names “twenty great wines” that can be found for $20 or less.

“I find myself going through life feeling ridiculously privileged.” In Wine-Searcher, Adam Lechmere chats with Oz Clarke.

Alder Yarrow shares some highlights from Taste Washington.

Ed McCarthy recently concluded that New York is “producing some of the best wines in the country.”

“Wherever you are on the wine journey,” Will Lyons believes that “an understanding and appreciation of [Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Riesling] will benefit you enormously.”

Sommelier Interview: Gene Alexeyev

Posted by | Posted in Interviews | Posted on 03-28-2014

Gene AlexeyevGene Alexeyev didn’t plan on becoming a sommelier.

Born in Russia, Gene began his career as a journalist. Once he left the newspaper industry to begin freelance writing, however, he needed an additional job to supplement his income – so began tending bar at Vidalia in Washington, DC.

A serious food and wine destination, Vidalia remains fertile training ground for sommeliers and chefs. Gene quickly gravitated toward wine, and soon began working in the industry full time.

In 2009, he joined the team at the Bombay Club. And in 2011, he moved to Todd Gray’s Watershed.

In early 2012, one of my favorite spots in DC, Blue Duck Tavern, brought Gene on to work as a food and beverage manager. The next year, he was promoted to sommelier. He has since completely revamped the wine program, and today, it’s one of the most exciting in town.

Check out our interview with Gene below the fold.  Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Totally New

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 03-28-2014

Flickr, rudynorff.

Flickr, rudynorff.

The San Jose Mercury News anoints me as the blogger of the week!

“It took almost 14 years of research and experimentation before they could say with certainty that this uncommon grape was a totally new indigenous variety, not only for Valpolicella, but for the whole (wealthy) Italian heritage of grapes.” In Palate Press, Elisabetta Tosi tells the story of Spigamonti.

“Many Japanese tastemakers are ignorant of winemaking, stylistic and drinking trends that occur elsewhere.” Ned Goodwin, MW, explains why he has decided to leave Japan.

“That’s the danger of tasting but a few sips of any wine. It’s the equivalent of speed dating. You really don’t want to run your life by shallow evaluations.” The HoseMaster tastes through a dozen Cabernet Sauvignons from Washington, Napa Valle,  and Sonoma County alongside Andy Perdue, Mike Dunne, Dan Berger, and Ellen Landis.

Mike Veseth explains why South Africa might be the world’s top wine tourism destination. I agree.

“Instead of telling us the same thing that the guy from Bordeaux said and spouting the same line as the lady from Napa, or putting us to sleep with hectares, varietal mix and rootstocks, tell us your story – unless you spot trains or collect stamps. In that case, stick to the rootstocks.” Rebecca Gibb offers some sound advice.

Liz Thach provides a “a brief review of trends in the US wine market for 2014 and highlights of 2013.”

Elsewhere, Joe Roberts looks at Nielsen’s take on wine consumer trends.

In Burgundy, Bruce Sanderson hangs out with Alex Gambal.

Tied house laws are still “Alive and Kicking.” John Trinidad explains.

“While new is exciting and compelling is intellectually engaging, when all is said and done, and one is sitting down with a nice plate of pasta, what works best might just be something fresh and simple.” Alfonso Cevola, chock-full of wisdom.

Channeling Churchill in Funchal: Exploring Madeira (Part 1/2)

Posted by | Posted in Wine Education | Posted on 03-27-2014

Edward Comstock.

Edward Comstock.

Wildly unhip — often associated with Old British People and men-in-suits-finishing-dinner at fussy steakhouses, or dismissed as “too sweet” by rubes that just don’t know any better — Madeira nevertheless possesses an unlikely combination of qualities revered by both trophy hunters and wine hipsters. Made from exotic varieties using time-honored, backwards-looking techniques, they are also rare, long-lived, and exceedingly collectable.

Madeira may well remain uncool for as long as these rich but elegant wines continue to be ignored by the critics and for as long as the hipsters remain fixated on what counts as “natural.”

Yet, at least here in Washington, DC, there seems to be a groundswell, a general rethinking of Madeira’s place in the wine world, evident at influential wine stores and restaurants around town.

My advice? Drink up, and be prepared for the pointy-people and tastemakers to follow suit.

In this two part post, I’ll introduce the often overlooked wines of Madeira, and the paradise island where they are made. Next I’ll detail my visit to the famed Blandy’s for an exclusive tour, interview, and tasting of the company’s recent and historic offerings.

PART 1: Channeling Churchill in Funchal

Perched at Reid’s Palaces’ timeless art deco bar, overlooking the steep volcanic cliffs off Funchal bay, twinkling and postcard-ready at sunset, I nursed a D’Oliiveiras 1907 Malvazia. The ancient wine, available by the glass, was exquisite. As it unfolded, I tried to imagine the tangle of merchant clippers and pirate ships that had darkened the port since Christopher Columbus called the island home. I wouldn’t have been surprised to find Reid’s most famous regular, Winston Churchill, joining me for an evening tipple.

My students are often confused when I tell them that time is not a real thing, that clocks don’t measure “something” out there. The wines of Madeira offer a lesson in the instability of our linear, all-to-human, concept of time.

Vintage Madeira exists between worlds — New and Old, now and then. It was the favorite wine of the founding fathers. It was there to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence. It reddens the noses of both rouges and kings throughout Renaissance and colonial literature and lore.

And right now, you can drink vibrant Madeira from vintages before your grandparents were born. At the same time, the wines of Madeira are very much alive, and have a unique voice to lend to contemporary debates about quality.

Madeira - 3

Edward Comstock.

Want to taste what wine was like in the nineteenth century? Get a few friends together and the dream quickly becomes an affordable possibility. Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Stupid Laws

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 03-27-2014

In the Robb Report, Michalene Busico chats with Kermit Lynch.

From kermitlynch.com

From kermitlynch.com

“These stupid laws don’t recognize the real tradition of Barolo.” In Wine Spectator, Robert Camuto chats with Giuseppe Rinaldi about Italy’s new cru labeling rules.

“Negrette. Mauzac. Fer servadou. Tannat. Loin de L’Oeil. No, I am not just making up gibberish words. These are the names of grapes used to produce some wines I’ve been drinking recently.” In Table Matters, Jason Wilson praises the reds of Southwest France.

“I frequently hear people suggest that wine critics’ judgement is impaired because they taste 100 – 200 wines in a day. They don’t. If for no other reason, time just doesn’t allow it.” Fred Swan attempts to find out how many wines an average critic will taste in a day.

“Eataly Wine will close for six months and its owners, including celebrity chef Mario Batali, will also pay a $500,000 fine.” Tyler Colman has the details.

From Alfonso Cevola, “Five Things You Should Know About Vinitaly.”

“Schmitt teaches winemakers not just how to smell wine, but how to pick out and properly describe all the varied aromas that make up the complex fragrance we call bouquet.” In Palate Press, Mary Orlin profiles Alexandre Schmitt, a classically trained French perfumer who teaches winemakers how to smell.

“Château Pontet-Canet has ruffled feathers by announcing the price for its 2013 vintage before the trade has tasted the wine.” Don Kavanagh reports in Wine-Searcher.

The Daily Meal names “The 60 (Plus) Coolest People in Food & Drink.”

“To prevent a civilization-threatening worldwide glut of Spanish vino, we all need to start drinking as much Spanish wine as possible, immediately.” On CNN, Ray Isle explains.

Tipsi, a new mobile app, launched this week with wine listings for more than 1,000 Manhattan restaurants. The Wall Street Journal has the details.

“When you come at the king, you best not miss.” In Slate, L.V. Anderson comments on Pete Wells’ response to Jordan Mackay’s recent essay in Punch.

In the Star Tribune, Bill Ward offers some advice on how to start and stock a wine cellar.

Daily Wine News: Casual Mention

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 03-26-2014

From wikipedia.

From wikipedia.

“Unless the establishment’s concept is demonstrably founded on cocktails, beer or wine, the standard review routinely ignores all but casual mention, despite the fact that, for a growing and free-spending faction, drinking is an essential part of the dining experience.” In Punch, Jordan Mackay wonders why wine and cocktails are absent from restaurant criticism.

“I can’t remember one as immediately thrilling and convincing in terms of wine quality as Domaine Gérard Mugneret in Vosne-Romanée.” Jancis Robinson profiles Pascal Mugneret, “the engineer of Vosne.”

In Oregon, according to Eric Degerman of Great Northwest Wine, “a growing number of producers are bullish on the Willamette Valley’s renaissance of Chardonnay.”

In Wine & Spirits, Jamie Goode explores New Zealand Pinot Noir, where “a mixed story is emerging.”

“Whether you choose one place to land” or “do a little wine island hopping,” Roger Morris thinks that Southwest France is a great place to visit.

“Plenty of people dream of getting into the wine business. Few have any clue how complicated it can be.” In the Press Democrat, Virginie Boone looks at the “Wine Entrepreneurship” program at Sonoma State University’s Wine Business Institute.

In Wine Spectator, James Molesworth reports from Bordeaux.

In the latest addition to his “Comprehensive Guide to Wine,” the HoseMaster drops some knowledge on wine tasting.

In the Los Angeles Times, S. Irene Virbila profiles two wine clubs: “Red, White & Weird” and “Le Metro – Wine. Underground.”

Daily Wine News: Possible Future

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 03-25-2014

“Broc offers a glimpse into one possible future for the California wine industry, a future that depends on vision, hustle and entrepreneurship rather than, as in Napa Valley, inheritance or making a fortune in another business to finance wine ventures.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov profiles Chris Brockway, the proprietor of Broc Cellars.

In the Wall Street Journal, Jay McInerney visits the Anderson Valley.

“This is not avant-garde posturing or even radical experiment, but rather a return to deep local traditions and a logical response to a singular set of grape varieties.” Andrew Jefford ponders orange wines — and wonders if “skin neglect may… come to be seen as a grotesque oversight in late twentieth century white-wine making.”

“Good notes are… a portrait of a wine at a particular point in time. You get the only the writer’s point of view and see only what they think is important.” Fred Swan thinks about tasting notes. Turns out they’re a lot like photographs.

“Wine importer Eric Solomon admits that the story of how he met his wife, winemaker Daphne Glorian of Clos Erasmus, ‘sounds like something off a Hallmark card.'” In the Financial Times, Jancis Robinson shares that story.

“Sommeliers can indeed take down a serious quantity of pizza.” So Levi Dalton asked several where they eat and what they drink.

“I think the way Seattle views both spending and wine is exactly where the rest of the country is headed. That’s not to say there’s no place for expensive wines, or expensive restaurants. But one thing that became a part of my wine DNA when I lived in Seattle was that it was seamlessly integrated into culinary life.” In Seattle Refined, Naomi Bishop chats with Jon Bonné.

In Pennsylvania, “supporters of liquor privatization are working on a compromise that would expand wine sales into grocery stores, restaurants and beer distributors but leave state liquor stores with the exclusive right to sell spirits such as whiskey, gin and vodka.”

If you’re “looking for a benchmark Texas wine,” Kim Pierce thinks you should “belly up to a bottle of Pedernales Cellars Tempranillo.”

Snooth asks a handful of wine writers to detail their “indispensable springtime food and wine pairing.”

BREAKING: A 100-Point Magazine

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 03-24-2014

Flickr, judepics.

Flickr, judepics.

On Sunday, Robert Parker announced (subscription required) the launch of a new lifestyle magazine called “100 Points by Robert Parker.”

The magazine will be published by Hubert Burda Media, a privately held company in Germany.

While it “will accept non-wine related advertising,” Parker promises that Burda has a “keen understanding of [the Wine Advocate’s] need to maintain the independence.”

The magazine will launch early this summer.

When Parker announced in late 2012 that he’d sold a “substantial interest” in the Wine Advocate to a trio of Singapore-based investors and relinquished editorial control, he shocked the wine world. This news won’t generate nearly as many headlines, but it’ll be interesting to see what the magazine looks like. Will it be like the Robb Report, with “articles about $100 million yachts and $500,000 watches alongside pages of advertising for the same kind of products,” as once described in the New York Times? Or will it be a staid review publication, like the Wine Advocate?

Daily Wine News: Prelaunch Mystique

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 03-24-2014

Flickr, craig.camp.

Flickr, craig.camp.

“Thus Sandlands has enjoyed the sort of prelaunch mystique reserved for projects with operational budgets in the eight figures, rather than one run from [a] modest Napa bungalow.” Jon Bonné writes a wonderful profile of the “vineyard wanderer,” Tegan Passalacqua.

“Some wineries are famous. Some are infamous. And some are legendary. Château Rayas sits comfortably between the latter two: equally enigmatic and revered.” Alder Yarrow visits Château Rayas.

“Asimov and Bonné are but two of many critics and wine importers who are helping reshape the American palate, and this will ultimately be good for all of us.” In the Montreal Gazette, Bill Zacharkiw comments on Robert Parker’s decision to lash out at critics with divergent opinions.

“In Europe… their job is just to not screw it up. Our job is to figure it all out and we’ve got to make mistakes and we’ve got to look foolish and we can’t take ourselves so seriously.” In Food Republic, Richard Martin and Randall Grahm explore humor in wine.

“Archaeologists have found what they believe could be evidence of a near-2,000-year-old Roman vineyard in southern England.” Chris Mercer has the details in Decanter.

Lily Elaine Hawk Wakawaka tastes Nagy Wines with Clarissa Nagy.

“I can go to this little seaside town and get an instant read on what’s changing in Italy just by looking at the store windows.” Alfonso Cevola writes about his “other” Italy.