Daily Wine News: #Champagne4Days

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-31-2013

champagne-saber“Everybody has harvested a good crop, but only some of us also harvested a beautiful crop.” For many producers, 2013 will be a vintage year in Champagne.

“This season, why not step away from Champagne-as-usual and pop the cork on some delicious grower Champagnes?” In the Los Angeles Times, S. Irene Virbila urges her readers to drink some farmer fizz on New Year’s Eve.

With the big night upon us, Richard Jennings profiles Serge Mathieu and Chartogne-Taillet, two grower-producers who produce  Champagnes of true, delicate beauty and artistry.”

Meanwhile, in the San Jose Mercury News, Laurie Daniel offers a number of Champagne suggestions.

In Serious Eats, Hayley Daen asks a number of sommelier to go outside Champagne and pick a favorite sparkler.

In Food & Wine, Tyler Colman explains why “sommeliers now favor a standard white wine glass” for Champagne.

“Admittedly, champagne is the perfect aperitif, with its mouth-watering acidity and fast-acting, refreshing effect, but with the right foods, one can get even more out of their drinking experience.” Wine-Searcher publishes an excerpt from Richard Juhlin’s new book, The Scent of Champagne.

Elsewhere in Serious Eats, Meg Houston Maker offers the best guide yet on cheese and wine pairing.

In Grape Collective, Alia Akkam chats with Maz Napa, co-owner of Rich Table in San Francisco.

“A lot of New Year’s resolutions are about reduction — shedding pounds or lowering debt or cutting back on stress. But for wine enthusiasts,” according to Bill Ward, “the resolving should be about expanding, especially one’s horizons.”

In Wine Spectator, Robert Taylor pays tribute to wine and food industry leaders who died this year.

New research from Oregon Health & Science University has found that “moderate drinking boosts [the] immune system.”

According to Jancis Robinson, “vintage port from the 1960s is now at its delicious peak.”

Dave McIntyre digs up an interview from four years ago where he chatted about Virginia wine — and comments on how far the industry has come.

“No office manager ever got fired for buying IBM.” And that’s why people keep buying Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc (and Veuve Clicquot) even though there are better wines for the money.

Daily Wine News: Indie Innovator

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-30-2013

Flickr, Jérôme-.

Flickr, Jérôme-.

“He nodded and scuffed his toe in the gravel, then apologized for failing to meet me last night, explaining that some family business had detained him. After an awkward pause, he asked me if I’d like a tour.” In the Wall Street Journal, Jay McInerney visits Anselme Selosse, the “Indie Innovator of Champagne Country.”

“Now is a good time to usher curiosity back into the often staid world of wine – to be mindful that the old hierarchies often no longer apply.” Jon Bonné lists his ten most memorable wines of the year.

Elsewhere in the Chronicle, Bonné convinces Gary Regan to create “a bubbly new drink for New Year’s Eve.”

In Wine-Searcher, Maureen Downey explores the impact of Rudy Kurniawan’s conviction.

Jameson Fink guests posts at The Reserve Wine Snob, recommending the NV Antech Brut Nature Blanquette de Limoux as a “satisfying and refreshing sparkling wine pick that’ll give you change back on your $20 bill.”

In the Press-Enterprise, Laurie Lucas profiles Chris Kern, the proprietor of Forgotten Grapes, a wine bar and retail shop in Riverside, California that focuses on the uncommon.

In Washington, at least, Lemberger is “slowly fading into obscurity.” The reason? According to many vintners, it’s the name — as it “evokes thoughts of stinky cheese rather than a deliciously smooth and fruity red wine.”

“Blind tastings can be fun, informative, uplifting, humbling, even humiliating.” Dave McIntyre shares his impressions from a recent blind tasting of a dozen sparklers.

“I’m not at my 10-pound goal yet, but I’m way beyond base camp. And I did it during the toughest time of the year.” Somehow, Alfonso Cevola lost weight during October, November, and December!

On NPR, Richard Betts chats with Jennifer Ludden about his book, The Essential Scratch and Sniff Guide to Becoming a Wine Expert.

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague explores wine-and-cheese matching with Sean Kelly of Murray’s Cheese.

Daily Wine News: Champagne Toast

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-27-2013

A-bottle-of-champagne-exp-002Wine Folly offers a guide to the Champagne toast. Be sure to check out all her Champagne content before New Year’s!

In Food & Wine, Charles Antin lists “10 New Year’s Eve Wines for Champagne Haters.”

“The top end of the red wine world especially is increasingly out of balance and out of control. The reputations of wines – and their prices – are increasingly created by the marks out of 100 doled out by a handful of übercritics, led by the American Robert Parker.” Wine-Searcher publishes an excerpt from Oz Clarke’s latest Pocket Wine Book.

A few days late, but in case you missed it, be sure to check out Andy Fortgang’s suggested “wine pairings for nine creepy holiday foods” in Punch.

“The lubricated conversation darted from winemaking tales, to rumors of winemakers with cocaine problems, and of course, to the camel.” In Grape Collective, Christopher Barnes writes about “the stolen camel of McLaren Vale.”

Isaac James Baker names his top five wines of 2013.

Robert Dwyer pits Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé against Piper Sonoma Rosé in a blind showdown. The Champagne won.

Kyle Schlachter chats with Dr. Harry Oldman.

Tom Wark lists “The Most Interesting Wine News of 2013.”

Daily Wine News: Wine Enlightenment

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-26-2013

Courtesy of Tim O'Rourke.

Courtesy of Tim O’Rourke.

“Great Champagne is one of the world’s most phenomenal wines. The best of them are both incredible versatile food wines, as well as utterly quaffable soloists.” Alder Yarrow details his favorite Champagnes of the year.

“Sometimes our favorite wines are memorable not just for what’s in the bottle but also for how we share them.” Dave McIntyre names his top wines of 2013.

In Wine Spectator, Jennifer Fiedler wonders what wine enlightenment looks like.

Did you get a wine chiller for Christmas? According to Paul Saums of D.O.C. Wine Shop, you should return it and just put your bottle in the toilet tank.

“If Fox News were to channel its resources to a vinous purpose, they could do well to declare a war on wine gadgets.” Tyler Colman drops some knowledge.

“I don’t review individual wines or assign scores so, while sensory factors clearly matter, I decided to base my final choice on a wine’s potential to shape or shift the market, or at least a particular segment of it, as well as the obvious taste, aroma and texture aspects.” Mike Veseth explains why he chose the the 2012 Eroica Gold Riesling as his wine of the year for Wine-Searcher.

In Grape Collective, Alia Akkam chats with Carl York and Emily Larkins of Craigie on Main, a hot restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

In the Willamette Valley, Domaine Drouhin has essentially doubled its estate vineyard holdings with the purchase of Roserock Vineyard, a 279-acre property in the Eola-Amity Hills.

In California, meanwhile, Kendall-Jackson has added 77 acres to its portfolio with the purchase of Yverdon Vineyard in Napa.

“I have heard Bonné’s book described as ‘the guide to hipster wine,’ and ‘what the cool kids are drinking’… But such a criticism is perhaps beside the point.” In 7×7 SF, Courtney Humiston reviews The New California Wine.

On Serious Eats, Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka writes and draws about which wines to drink with Chinese food.

“I feel Santa Claus fever coming on.” Miss Christmas? Check out the Wine Curmudgeon.

Big Love for Big Champagne

Posted by | Posted in White's Wines | Posted on 12-24-2013

blind champagneAs regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are now hosted by Grape Collective. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I stand up for big house Champagne.

Big Love for Big Champagne

Wine writers love explaining why Champagne and other sparkling wines deserve a spot at the dinner table all year long.

Good sparklers are characterized by vibrant acidity and freshness, which help them cut through spicy meals, complement savory food, and elevate even the simplest of dishes. Plus, they’re delicious every night of the week, regardless of whether there’s anything to celebrate.

But we inevitably write about this topic in late December. After all, Champagne houses and retailers alike spend millions each year to convince us that New Year’s Eve is best enjoyed with a glass of sparkling wine. And marketing matters.

The focus of these columns is just as predictable. Writers who cater to the everyday consumer offer tips on how to find value, steering readers toward sparkling alternatives like Cremant de Bourgogne, Cava, and Prosecco. After all, Champagne isn’t cheap.

Writers who cater to a more sophisticated audience laud “grower” Champagnes. Made by the farmers who grow the grapes, these wines have exploded in popularity over the past few years and offer a refreshing alternative to big brands like Moet & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. Plus, just as food consumers feel better about purchasing fruit at the local farmers’ market, wine consumers feel better about supporting grower-producers.

Consequently, few writers champion the brands you can easily find at wine shops across the country. This is unfortunate. While Champagne’s big brands aren’t trendy right now, the top producers deliver consistent, high quality wines year after year. And their offerings have never been better.

Check out the rest of the piece at Grape Collective.

Daily Wine News: Ample Reason

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-24-2013

Laurent Ponsot.

Laurent Ponsot.

“If Ponsot had not got on that plane, there is every reason to believe that a wealthy wine lover or ‘collector’ (or both) would have paid serious money for wine that the auctioneer had ample reason to believe was fake.” Robert Joseph offers some thoughtful commentary on “willful ignorance” in the wine world.

“People like me who love pinot noirs of finesse and restraint will adore the 2011 vintage. The best wines are clear, focused and vivacious.” Eric Asimov will “fondly remember” Oregon’s 2011 vintage.

The Daily Sip catches up with Alder Yarrow.

In Palate Press, Remy Charest discovers that “there is much more to Argentina than this mass of interchangeable, often oaky, soft and overpolished Malbec.”

In the Star-Ledger, John Foy offers some sparkling advice. Laurie Daniel offers more advice on the Mercury News.

Panos Kakaviatos tastes through several different vintages of Dom Perignon.

In the New York Times, Howard Goldberg contends that “Long Islanders stocking up on dry sparkling wines for Christmas and New Year’s festivities can find what they are looking for locally.”

On CNN.com, Ray Isle urges readers to “think outside the bottle for wine gifts.”

Dave McIntyre shares his favorite fruit cake recipe.

Daily Wine News: Notably Intimate

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-23-2013

From kermitlynch.com

From kermitlynch.com

On CBS Sunday Morning, Martha Teichner looks into the world of wine forgery.

The HoseMaster shares this year’s “wine family” Christmas card.

“His view of wine – notably intimate, intended for food and driven by small producers – is ascendant among a new generation.” In the San Francisco Chronicle, Jon Bonné catches up with Kermit Lynch.

In a separate piece, Bonné contends that “vintage Champagnes are again achieving what they always should have: displaying a specific view of time and place.”

“I buy wine that I love. I save it, I don’t collect it. I drink it.” Alfonso Cevola shares some wine collecting tips.

“John made Rudy, but more importantly, Rudy made John.” Mike Steinberger provides some thoughtful commentary on Acker Merrall & Condit.

In Wine-Searcher, Claire Adamson finds “5 Goofy Wine Ads From the ’80s.”

Wine-Searcher asks its “columnists and contributors to name the wines that have most impressed them over the past 12 months.”

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague looks at what exactly the nose knows — and whether a broken one can be fixed.

In the Los Angeles Times, S. Irene Virbila highlights this year’s top wine books.

“Above all, Steinberger wants wine drinkers to sip with confidence and not be swayed by the pious mystifications of wine snobs.” In the Boston Globe, Matthew Price reviews Michael Steinberger’s new book, The Wine Savant.

Wine Reviews: California Chardonnay

Posted by | Posted in Wine Reviews | Posted on 12-21-2013

This week, we’re focusing on some California Chardonnays. This report includes some newly-released 2012s, which seem to deserve the credit they’re being given. The 2011s, though less heralded, still deliver with crisp acid and fresh fruit flavors. All wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

Review: 2012 Magnolia Court Chardonnay
California, Central Coast
SRP: $12
A light yellow-straw color. Lime, apricot and white pepper on the nose. Nice bite on the palate, some creaminess, with lime, grapefruit and papaya flavors. Whipped honey and almond mixes with a nice herbal kick. A simple but tasty wine. (85 points IJB)

Review: 2010 Dierberg Chardonnay
California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $32
I get some hazelnut and lemon oil notes on the nose, covering the yellow apple and lime. On the palate, this wine has a medium-bodied frame and crisp, persistent acid. The yellow apple and apricot flavors show richness, with notes of whipped honey, walnut and a kind or oily, varnished wood note. Long finish. I’m enjoying the combination of freshness and richness in this Chardonnay. Undergoes 10% maloactic fermentation and spends 10 months in 25% new oak. (90 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Alta Maria Chardonnay
California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
SRP: $23
A straw-yellow color. On the nose: tangerine, white cherry, lemon-lime, honeysuckle. On the palate: tangy but creamy, lots of floral notes blend with the tangerine and papaya, some honeycomb and almond elements, minerals and sea salt. Shows a lot of elegance. This Los Olivos-based producer is one to watch. (90 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Fess Parker Chardonnay
California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
SRP: $19
A nose of white peach, golden apples, some sea salt and a bit of honey butter. On the palate, the acid sings, but there’s a fullness and richness to the mouthfeel. Flavors of white peach, yellow apple and apricot intertwine with notes of honey and buttered rum. Toasty, but not overwhelmingly so, and the finish is crisp and full nuts and orange peel. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2012 True Myth Chardonnay Paragon Vineyard
California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
SRP: $15
Neon yellow-gold color. Smells like honey, white peach, pineapple and hazelnut. Oily texture, medium acid, with white peach and mango mixed in with coconut, honey and a bit of a saline note. Tasty stuff for the price. (86 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Mossback Chardonnay
California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $18
On the nose: grapefruit, apricot, orange blossom, honey, some mineral elements. Palate shows medium acid, plump white peach, apricot and yellow apple, some honeycomb. Fruity but showing some nice tartness, as well as some mineral and honeysuckle on the finish. For $18, this is quite an effort from Crew Wines. (88 points IJB)

Review: 2012 Hanna Chardonnay Estate Grown
California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
SRP: $29
Some honey, guava, caramel and some orange peel on the nose. Creamy palate, medium acid. Flavors of orange sherbet, honey, peachy, orange marmalade. A tiny bit of mineral, but mostly this is a fruit cocktail, and an enjoyable one. (87 points IJB)

Review: 2011 Stony Hill Chardonnay
California, Napa Valley
SRP: $42
Bright citrus (lemon, nectarine, grapefruit) on the nose, along with some limestone and herbal notes. On the palate, the acid provides a lot of bite and the fruit is so tangy and crisp, nectarine and grapefruit, along with a flavor that reminds me of a tart McIntosh apple. Then there are these honeysuckle, basil and intense mineral aspects. A bright wine that offers a compelling counterargument to idea that Napa Chardonnays are overblown. Old oak barrels, no maloactic fermentation. (90 points IJB)

Review: 2011 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay Estate Bottled
California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
SRP: $30
Gold-yellow color with viscous legs. Aromas of whipped honey, pear, apricot and nougat, mixed in with a hint of limestone or chalk. On the palate, the yellow apple and pear fruit is coated in nougat, peanut shell and a distinct macadamia nut flavor. There’s a nice kick to the acid, though, offering some balance. I like this lemon zest and chalk note as well. Bold, but not heavily creamy. Interesting because it’s toasty, but still tangy, and offering some mineral and rock accents. Long finish with notes of honeycomb and toffee. Barrel-fermented and aged 8 months in 100% new French oak. (91 points IJB)

Daily Wine News: Still Reacting

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-20-2013

rudy KurniawanThe wine world is still reacting to the news that a jury convicted Rudy Kurniawan of fraud. Kerry Wills reports. Alder Yarrow has put together a helpful list of links. Tyler Colman share some courtroom observations.

“The outlook, from here at least, favors the young and wired.” On Forbes.com, Cathy Huyghe profiles some “Non-Traditional Wine Entrepreneurs Doing Cool Things In 2014.”

In Wine-Searcher, “10 Things Every Wine Lover Should Know About Pontet-Canet.”

“Bottle size matters when it comes to wine, but maybe not as much as you might think.” James Laube tastes a 1995 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages in five iterations: methuselah, jeroboam, magnum, standard and half-bottle.

“Such success for any winery’s second vintage is improbable, but for a Vermont winery it’s nearly inconceivable.” Meg Houston Maker finds real wine in Vermont.

The HoseMaster reflects on 2013.

From Wine Enthusiast, an extremely helpful wine shipping map.

Elsewhere in Wine Enthusiast, Roger Voss profiles “six influential characters [who] are reshaping the Portuguese wine scene into something modern, dynamic and quality focused.”

Alder Yarrow offers an update on “The Essence of Wine” book project.

In Palate Press, Michelle Locke contends it’s “Clearly, it’s “time to rethink New Zealand as a one- or even two-grape wonder.”

In USA Today, Megan Yates explains “how to navigate New York City’s wine bars.”

 

Daily Wine News: Guilty

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 12-19-2013

rudy Kurniawan“Wearing an ill-fitting gray suit, Kurniawan stood tight-lipped, with his hands crossed in front of him, as a middle-aged woman, the forewoman for a 12-person jury, read the verdict.” Yesterday, Rudy Kurniawan was found guilty. He’ll be sentenced on April 24

“No matter what the feds do going forward, the Rudy Kurniawan saga has been one heck of a story.” Tyler Colman offers some commentary.

In Wine Spectator, Mitch Frank wonders if Kurniawan is just the tip of a “Fake Wine Crisis.”

Keith Levenberg attends a wine tasting with Kurniawan, in prison.

“I remember in the late 1970s when Dan Green, my publisher at Simon & Schuster, showed me a little magazine by a chap he was thinking of publishing called Robert Parker. I liked the very vivid tasting notes, I thought they jumped off the page, but then I said, ‘What’s this number here?’, and he said, ‘That’s the score.’ I said, ‘That’s not possible.’” In Wine-Searcher, Adam Lechmere chats with Hugh Johnson.

On the blog for Tablas Creek, Jason Haas wonders “What Facebook’s News Feed Changes Mean for the Wine Community.”

“Even if it is actually just money passing hands, what it looks like is Rick Ross going all in, living that #belairelife. The endorsement feels real.” Ben O’Donnell explains how one small importer has unlocked the secret to wine marketing.

Lauren Mowery lists “Ten Gifts for Wine Lovers.”

“While we’d never turn down a bottle of Krug, a lesser-known group of producers in Champagne is making bubbles that take the region’s telltale glamour in a different direction.” Grape Collective provides a primer on Grower Champagne.