Daily Wine News: Misunderstood Riesling

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 07-31-2013

From the Oregon Riesling Alliance.

From the Oregon Riesling Alliance.

“Since 2007 the world’s top riesling producers have met annually with prominent merchants, wholesalers, sommeliers and wine writers. And yet riesling sales are declining while close competitors are gaining ground.” Katherine Cole offers her thoughts on this year’s “Riesling Rendezvous, an international symposium co-hosted in Seattle by Chateau Ste. Michelle of Washington state and Dr. Loosen in Germany.”

“Misunderstood Riesling. Misunderappreciated Oregon Pinot Gris. What is to be done?” Mike Veseth, the wine economist, explores the marketing challenges presented by unusual wines.

“Thanks to its cultural roots, Alsatian Riesling craves pork… but it gets along swimmingly with salty seafoods too.” On Serious Eats, Lily Elaine Hawk Wakawaka offers some thoughts (and a cartoon!) on what pairs well with Alsatian Riesling.

On the blog for Live-ex, Gavin Quinney of Chateau Bauduc writes about the recent storms in Bordeaux.

China has stepped back from its threat to hit European wine producers with punitive tariffs.

On Monday, about 50 protesters demonstrated in front of Paul Hobbs Winery in Sebastopol.

In Wine-Searcher, Tyler Colman higlights the impact of Ireland on the world of wine.

In Palate Press, Becky Sue Epstein wonders why we’re drinking vintage ports when they’re so young.

Tom Wark offers “10 Warnings For Visitors to Napa Valley.”

“Mulville claims the sheep eliminate the need for any mechanical cultivation, tillage or mowing both between rows and under the vines.” In Wines & Vines, Paul Franson reports from the Napa Valley Grapegrowers’ seventh annual Organic Winegrowing Conference.

 

“More than a year after Washington voters approved Initiative 1183, allowing the sale of liquor in licensed private stores, the social disaster predicted by supporters of state stores has not happened.” In an editorial, the Seattle Times concludes that liquor privatization in Washington is working as advertised.

Daily Wine News: Monsters & Champagne

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 07-30-2013

Flickr, Jérôme-.

Flickr, Jérôme-.

“Even at such a star-studded event – where guests sipped Moët’s 1911 vintage – a handful of guests around me whispered that they were finding it difficult to drink only Champagne all night.” In her latest Wine-Searcher column, Jeannie Cho Lee MW contends that many Chinese diners are turned off by drinking Champagne throughout an entire evening. Forget auction prices, this is insane!

Elsewhere in Wine-Searcher, some terrible news: “Just days after some of Burgundy’s… vineyards were ravaged by hail and torrential rain, thousands of residents in Champagne, Bordeaux and the Languedoc were left without power… after severe storms late on Friday night and the early hours of Saturday morning.”

“They call themselves the ‘new Chile,’ and they are trying to get as far from ‘industrial’ winemaking as possible.” In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre writes about the new crop of Chilean winemakers.

In Newsday, Mark Harrington profiles Carey and Regan Meador of Southold Farm + Cellar on Long Island, where some “exotic” grapes (like Lagrein and Albarino) are being planted.

In his latest column, Dan Berger explains why Seattle’s logo should be “a salmon debating whether to have a cup of coffee or a glass of Riesling.”

“The dramatic setting aside, the event reminded me of the old TV show, College Bowl, except the questions are all about wine–not wine in general, only the wines of Médoc, Graves, Sauternes and Barsac.” In Wine Review Online, Michael Apstein visits this year’s Left Bank Bordeaux Cup.

Silicon Valley Bank’s Rob McMillan praises A History of Wine in America.

In Bloomberg, John Mariani offers his thoughts on drinking red wines with steak on hot summer evenings. 

Having recently judged the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards, Andrew Jefford is worried that “the age of the Renaissance reader — and drinker — may be ending, submerged in the information tsunami.”

According to Washington Post columnist Neil Irwin, you’re a “monster” if you purchase expensive wine.

Mas La Plana – Spanish Cabernets with a Long History

Posted by | Posted in Wine Reviews | Posted on 07-29-2013

Miguel Torres Maczassek is a focused man, sniffing and sipping his wine like a scientist at work. Now CEO of the Torres Group, Miguel gives the impression that he would’ve excelled in pretty much any profession. (Indeed, he did well for himself in the perfume business before becoming marketing director for Torres). But Miguel is truly in his element as he discusses his family’s top wine, Mas La Plana.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting six vintages of Mas La Plana with Miguel and some others at Jaleo restaurant in Washington, DC. We tasted the 1977, 1983, 1996, 2003, 2007 and 2009 vintages. We then moved on to a variety of delicious small plates, continuing to sip and discuss the six different wines.

maslapanaA single estate 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Penedès appellation of eastern Spain, the Torres family has been producing this wine since 1970. In 1966, at a time when Spanish Cabernet was practically unheard of, Miguel’s father planted Cabernet vines in the gravel and limestone soils of Mas La Plana. At a Paris Wine Olympiad blind tasting in 1979 this inaugural vintage of Mas La Plana bested some of Bordeaux’s biggest names. Torres had its foot in the door of world-class Cabernet.

The Torres family has been making wine in the Penedès appellation for almost 150 years. If you’ve ever been in a liquor store, you recognize their Sangre de Toro wines, complete with a little plastic bull adorned to the neck. While large-scale Catalunya blends may have been Torres’ bread and butter for decades, Mas La Plana is a whole different deal.

As evidenced by this tasting, Mas La Plana has evolved quite a bit over the decades, following a common storyline of creeping alcohol content and increased time in new French oak. Miguel admits Mas La Plana has taken on a more polished and approachable style over the years, achieved by longer skin contact and more new oak. While I was smitten with the elegance and bright acidity of the older vintages, I found a lot to love in the more recent vintages, all of which maintain pure fruit and the earthy essence of their region.

Check out my tasting notes below the fold.

Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: “Minerality”

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 07-29-2013

Limestone.

Limestone.

Thanks to Alex Gambal, Panos Kakaviatos has an update on the two terrible storms that collided over the Côte de Beaune last week.

“The word is popular among winemakers, wine retailers and sommeliers, not to mention wine drinkers, wine critics and wine columnists.” In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague attempts to define “minerality.”

“What it all boils down to is this: making a commitment to being an ambassador for good tasting wines, whether they be from Italy or California or anywhere in the world.” Alfonso Cevola highlights the best Italian-focused wine lists in the United States

In Serious Eats, Maggie Hoffman asks “a group of sommeliers from around the country about the worst food and wine pairings — from oysters and tannic Cabernet to dry Champagne and wedding cake — and why they’re so terrible together.”

Although Jamie Goode doesn’t think wine expertise is illusory, he thinks those “involved professionally with wine… need to show a little humility.”

W. Blake Gray writes about the humor of “bewildering tasting notes.”

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka visits Kelly Fleming Wines.

In Wine Enthusiast, Adam Strum contends that “Zinfandel… has made a comeback, with better quality, diversity and value than ever.

Elsewhere in Wine Enthusiast, Joe Czerwinski debunks the notion that Aussie wines are best enjoyed young.

Alder Yarrow previews the 2013 Napa Valley Wine Library Association Member Tasting. It sounds amazing.

Eric Asimov tastes through 20 blanco tequilas. “The results were somewhat disquieting.”

Wine Reviews: Chilean Grab Bag

Posted by | Posted in Wine Reviews | Posted on 07-27-2013

When you hear the phrase “Chilean wine,” what words come to mind? Carménère? Don Melchor? For me, Chilean wine is synonymous with value. Chilean wines frequently have a high quality-to-price-ratio, and the level of diversity is impressive.

I recently tasted through a few Chilean wines and found a few more reasons why I associate Chile with value-driven wines. I didn’t realize it at the time — I was tasting blind — but all of the bottles in this group generally retail for $15 or less, making them good choices for summertime sipping or parties.

A quick note on the “Gran Reserva” designation that appears on several of these wines. While Old World reserve designations indicate the wine was aged for a certain number of years, the requirements for Gran Reserva designation in Chile are less strict. The designation simply means the wine must have at least 12.5% alcohol and receive at least some oak treatment.

All these wines were received as trade samples and tasted blind.

2012 Casa Marin Gewürztraminer Cartagena “Lo Abarca”
Chile, San Antonio Valley
SRP: $15
Very light straw-yellow color. Ripe and fresh on the nose, with pineapple and mango backed up by a note of green pepper and rosemary. On the palate, the oily mouthfeel is matched by medium acid. The fruit is ripe but also a bit pungent, like tangerine rind and the outer parts of a pineapple. The fruit flavors work well with notes of sweet honeysuckle, green pepper and sage. Bright and tangy on the finish. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a Chilean Gewürz, but this is solid stuff. (87 points)

2012 Ventisquero Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva “Queulat”
Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $12
Light and clear yellow color. Smells really fresh, green apples, green melon, honeysuckle, but there’s also a distinct herbal note that reminds me of jalapeno and chives. Tart acid kicks off the palate, followed up by crisp green apple and pear skin flavors. That jalapeno and chive note mixes in with the fruit. It’s actually quite light in its approach, perhaps a little mild. The acid lingers with lemon zest on the finish. (85 points)

2011 Viu Manent Chardonnay Gran Reserva
Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $11
A burst of lemon and kiwi on the nose, there’s also a nutty-rich note, something like honey and hazelnut. Generously textured on the palate, with yellow apple and nectarine fruit that is ripe and plush. Hazelnut and toasted almond accents, a bit of cinnamon baking spice, but the acid offers crispness. Green apple, nutty and toffee notes last onto the finish, reminds me of a candy apple. Solid stuff, especially considering the price. (87 points)

2012 Tabalí Viognier Reserva
Chile, Limarí Valley
SRP: $14
The nose is a citrus explosion: grapefruit, lemon, lime and tangerine, along with a white flower and sea salt note. Creamy on the palate, but the acid zips. The tangerine, apricot and papaya fruit is ripe but tangy. A sense of ocean spray and honey mix together in this wine, and I’m really enjoying it. Ripe but lean, and packed with flavor. If you dislike some of the hot and rich Viogniers, this brisk, stainless steel-fermented wine could be a great summer sipper. (88 points)

2011 Cultivate “Copa Cobana”
Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $13
Rich and smoky on the nose, the sweet mixed berry aromas blend well with the earth and charcoal. On the palate, this is a silky, juicy, easy-drinking red. The berry flavors are ripe and tangy, mixed with red licorice candy and some earthy, smoky, sage-like notes. I like the acid and the light tannins. This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Carmenere is a perfect summer grilling red, especially at $13. (87 points)

2011 Ventisquero Pinot Noir Gran Reserva “Queulat”
Chile, Casablanca Valley
SRP: $15
Clear ruby colored. Pretty aromas of cherries and raspberries, mixed with notes of rhubarb and sweet roses. Juicy cherry fruit leads the palate, with tangy acid and easy-drinking tannins. A bit lighter fresher in its approach, this Pinot Noir also shows some earth and mushroom notes, as well as some cola and cinnamon. Medium-length finish. The elements line up really well. Good stuff for the price. (88 points)

Wines scoring <85 points
2011 Cultivate Chardonnay “Wonderlust”
Chile, Central Valley
SRP: $13
Aromas of melon, green pear, honey and a note that reminds me of almond butter. Plump and ripe on the palate. The yellow apple and pear flavors mix with butter, honey, melon rind and almond. Creamy, but not overblown. This chardonnay doesn’t see any oak, and it’s blended with a “dash” of Moscatel.

Weekly Interview: Rachel Stinson

Posted by | Posted in Interviews | Posted on 07-26-2013

Rachel StinsonEach week, as regular readers know, we pose a series of questions to a winemaker. This week, we’re featuring Rachel Stinson of Stinson Vineyards.

Located in foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, Stinson Vineyards traces its origins to 2009. That year, Scott and his wife Martha were searching for a change of pace from their hectic lives in Washington, D.C., so began looking for property in rural Virginia.

When they found a 12-acre parcel in a small town west of Charlottesville — complete with a historic, 220-year-old home and a long-neglected vineyard — they bit, and soon decided to build a winery.

Scott is an architect, so he quickly got to work in converting the property to a boutique winery. Rachel soon joined the family operation, moving to Virginia from New York City, where she had been working as a photo editor.

Having tasted (and been impressed with) the wines from Stinson, this is certainly an operation worth keeping an eye on.

Check out our interview with Rachel below the fold. Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Carlo Rossi

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 07-26-2013

jug-wine“Carlo Rossi’s plea to pay sole attention to what’s in the glass can thus be seen as part of a larger socio-cultural movement. Rossi’s straightforward approach encouraged wine drinkers to bypass the conventional critical apparatus of wine.” In Boom, David Michalski of the Unversity of California-Davis writes a wonderful essay exploring big wine and authenticity. It’s well worth reading. (H/T: Jeff Siegel.)

“Not only does terroir exist everywhere, its expression changes everywhere.” Kyle Schlachter explores the meaning of terroir.

“When it gets really hot, factors such as refreshment and freshness come to the fore, trumping complexity and maturity. In short, we crave a glass of bracing, food-friendly wine. In this category, especially in terms of price and alcohol level, one wine trumps them all: Vinho Verde.” So contends Will Lyons in the Wall Street Journal Europe.

On Forbes.com, Katie Kelly Bell contends that the Languedoc is a great source of value wines.

“Syrian winery, Domaine Bargylus, continues to go to extraordinary lengths to get its wines from a war zone to the elite wine lists of Europe.” In Harper’s, Michael Karam shares a remarkable story.

In Wine-Searcher, “10 Things Every Wine Lover Should Know About Pichon-Lalande.”

In Wine Spectator, Jennifer Fiedler offers “7 Do’s and Don’ts of Talking About Wine to a Non-Wine Crowd.”

Araujo Estate has been purchased by Artémis Group, the owners of Château Latour. Tyler Colman has more.

“Australia is best known for its blockbuster shiraz from the Barossa and minty cabs from Coonawarra, but a pinot noir from the little-known Gippsland region has been awarded the title ‘Australian Wine of the Year 2014’ by the country’s best-known critic.” In Wine-Searcher, Rebecca Gibb has the details.

Steve Heimoff doesn’t “expect Petite Sirah to explode like Pinot Noir post-Sideways… until George Clooney and Ryan Gosling make a buddy movie about it.”

On that note, a little something for the ladies. “Definitive Proof That Ryan Gosling Is Like A Fine Wine.”

Daily Wine News: Renegades

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 07-25-2013

Rowdy & Dirty, respectively.

Rowdy & Dirty, respectively.

“Forgoing Cabernet Sauvignon for grapes like Trousseau Gris and Valdiguié, a handful of renegade winemakers have begun experimenting with heirloom grape varieties… to produce some of the most compelling wines to come out of [California] in decades.” In Fortune, Julia van der Vink explains “how a group of young growers is re-imagining viticulture” in California.

Pennsylvania lawmakers failed to privatize state wine and liquor stores this year, but an effort to allow the direct shipment of wine to consumers seems to be a real possibility.

Steve Heimoff shares his keynote speech to this year’s Petite Sirah Symposium.

“Fricke’s wines have a nervous intensity that borders on austerity in some cases… thanks in part to the coldness of her sites. But it is clear that Fricke is also aiming for the core of minerality that the greatest Rieslings possess.” Alder Yarrow profiles the Rheingau’s Eva Fricke and tastes through her current releases.

In Wine Enthusiast, Roger Voss contends that Port’s 2011 vintage is the best in the last twenty years.

At the top end, Champagne sales are surging.

When blind tasting, even experts have a difficult time identifying the percentage of Chardonnay in Champagne.

Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka writes about a visit to Bettulle, a Friuli-based winery that focuses primarily on grapes local to the region.

In case you’re curious, “use of the term natural wine dates back to at least 1639.” Aaron Nix-Gomez has the details.

Isaac James Baker writes about an “on the beaten path” tasting at Kenwood Winery in Sonoma.

Last weekend, Boordy Vineyards took top honors at the Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition. Dave McIntyre has the details.

“Open that liquor cabinet wide and see what’s hiding back there. And get to work.” W. Blake Gray explains why you might have a lot of drinking to do.

Daily Wine News: Severe Storm

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 07-24-2013

From Wikimedia.

From Wikimedia.

Yesterday, Tyler Colman reports, “a particularly severe storm dumped hail and lots of rain on parts of Burgundy.” Wine-Searcher has more.

In Wine-Searcher, “Rebecca Gibb travels to Singapore for a chat with Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, the new editor-in-chief of The Wine Advocate.”

“My dream is that in 2015 we hold a tasting of wines made from 1,368 varieties with 1,368 people attending the tasting,” In Wine Spectator, Suzanne Mustacich details the efforts of oenology researchers to “[Save] the Wine World’s Unheralded Grapes.”

“If you think you prefer white wine, Barbera is your gateway to reds. It offers a medium weight on the palate with elegant—but juicy—flavors. If you like red wines, Barbera has enough weight and interest to keep you.” On Serious Eats, Lily Elaine Hawk Wakawaka offers some thoughts (and a cartoon!) on what pairs well with Barbera.

In Napa, at least, “lifestyle” winery buyers appear to be back. In Wines & Vines, Paul Franson has the details.

On Decanter.com, Andrew Jefford learns that the Languedoc-Roussillon is “the biggest Syrah-growing region in the world.”

Portugal’s domestic wine market is hurting. So producers are hoping that exports to the United States continue to grow.

Paul Gregutt urges his readers to check out the wines of Trisaetum.

“In its best expression, it exhibits great concentration, muscular tannins, earthy red fruits, juicy acidity, and a meaty, almost smoky undercurrent.” In Palate Press, Meg Houston Maker praises Monastrell.

Wine Enthusiast offers some suggestions on which wines to order while flying.

“Pinot Grigio with fish, cooked fillet-style like they serve it in Italy. And some Tuscan reds when going more towards pastas with rich and heavy sauces.” Elsewhere in Wine Enthusiast, George Clooney talks tequila and wine. 

Riesling: Oregon’s Best Kept Secret

Posted by | Posted in White's Wines | Posted on 07-23-2013

From the Oregon Riesling Alliance.

From the Oregon Riesling Alliance.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

In my latest column, I contend that Riesling is Oregon’s best kept secret.

Riesling: Oregon’s Best Kept Secret

If you play word association with a wine enthusiast and throw out the word “Oregon,” chances are pretty high that the response will be “Pinot Noir.”

For good reason. In the 1960s, a handful of young vintners moved to the state, all passionate about wine and eager to be a part of something new. Within a decade, those who believed Oregon’s climate would be too cold and wet for grapes were proven wrong when a Pinot Noir from one of those trailblazers, David Lett, took home gold at the 1979 Wine Olympics in Paris.

Over the next 30 years, hundreds of winemakers set up shop in Oregon, eager to produce world-class Pinot Noir. Today, the state’s wine industry promotes itself with posters and other items that say “Drink Pinot, Think Oregon.”

But while Lett and other pioneers were focusing on Pinot Noir, a number of other vintners were giving it a go with Riesling. Indeed, about a quarter of Oregon’s vineyards were planted to Riesling in 1980. As Pinot Noir acreage exploded, however, Riesling became overshadowed.

Today, though, Oregon Riesling is experiencing a resurgence. And it’s better than ever.

Check out the rest of the piece on Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine.