Santa Barbara. From Wikipedia.

“Most growers will have had among their best vintages of the last decade in 2012. But what is it like? It’s loaded.” Terry Theise writes about the 2012 vintage in Germany.

“In the last few years, I’ve noticed more and more Santa Barbara Chardonnays that seem to have been produced with the aim of finesse and subtlety. That’s the style of Chardonnay that I greatly prefer.” The New York Times tasting panel is “pleasantly surprised” by the Chardonnay from Santa Barbara. 

“At the time, they had no idea they were embarking on an adventure that would not only change their lives, but also the destiny of an entire denomination.” In Wine-Searcher, Kerin O’Keefe profiles Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano of COS in Sicily. 

Elsewhere in Wine-Searcher, Jennifer Ashcroft interviews Fred Schrader. 

“From his time at Luna, where he provided an incubator for young winemakers, to his Ribolla Gialla vineyard, George was a sort of godfather for the current “new wave” of California winemakers.” In the Napa Valley Register, a thoughtful obituary for George Vare. 

“Too many Eastern owners, I believe, become complacent after finding that, despite the tough growing conditions, it is not that difficult to make nice wines that sell out at the tasting rooms and win a few prizes at the ubiquitous wine competitions.” Roger Morris offers his take on this year’s Drink Local Wine conference.  

Meanwhile, in two parts (a “review” and an “assessment“), Kyle Schlachter shares his thoughts on the conference. 

“Maybe the future of Maryland wine is SK 7753 or SK 771099.” Todd Godbout also chimes in. 

Joseph & Curtis chat with Snooth’s Gregory Dal Piaz.

Panos Kakaviatos has updated his site with a number of posts on En Primeur. 

In the New York Times, Florence Fabricant writes about a blind tasting of the world’s top olive oils.

This week’s tasting report focuses on some solid California chardonnays. All wines were received as press samples and tasted blind.

2010 Smith Madrone Chardonnay Estate Bottled – USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District ($30)
The fruit smells honeyed and rich, yet these shaved lime peel, sea shell and peanut brittle notes demand attention as well. It all combines in a beautiful aromatic display. This chardonnay introduces itself by barging through the door, with pineapple, melon, honey, and mixed nuts from the oak. (It spends 8 months in 100% new French oak). But it’s still bright from the acid, which is crucial to have in wines with this kind of intensity. Orange peel, seashell, caramel and hazelnut linger long onto the finish. A brave wine that challenges — and rewards — my palate. I’m kind of in love with it. (92 points IJB)

2010 Grgich Hills Chardonnay Estate Grown – USA, California, Napa Valley ($42)
Aromas of juicy yellow apple, pineapple, guava, but there’s also this white flower and sea salt aroma that keeps it from being too rich. The palate is blessed with acid. Richer flavors of pineapple and guava mix with Granny Smith apple, sea shell and striking minerality. The wine is fermented and aged 10 months in 40% new French oak, which adds caramel and nutty notes to the finish. It undergoes no maloactic fermentation, so if you like citrus in your chardonnay, this is perfect. I’m impressed with the depth and balance of this wine. Grgich Hills, blind or sighted, I end up loving these wines. (91 points IJB)

2011 Lawer Family Chardonnay Duck Shack – USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley ($22)
Bright on the nose with tart lemons, tangerines and mineral notes. On the palate, this wine has tart acid, creamy body and flavors of green pear, apple and lime. Very tangy and brisk in its approach, with just enough richness and creamy-nutty notes to say, “I’m from California.” The 13.2% alcohol is really refreshing. (88 points IJB)

2011 Breggo Cellars Chardonnay – USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley ($28)
The nose reminds me of key lime pie, with the sweet lime, the cream and the graham cracker. Juicy yellow apples on the palate, buttery and creamy. Medium+ acid keeps this together. Nice graham cracker, hazelnut notes linger long onto the finish. A bit simple, but clearly a crowd-pleasing wine. I’m generally more enthusiastic about Breggo wines. (86 points IJB)

2011 Landmark Chardonnay Overlook – USA, California, Sonoma County ($20)
Aromas of honeysuckle, buttered biscuits and fleshy yellow apple. Creamy on the palate, with yellow apple, baked pear, buttercream and toasted oak flavors. Medium acid keeps it fresh. There’s a flavor that reminds me of toasted biscuits. Overall, a solid chardonnay. (87 points IJB)

2011 Artesa Chardonnay Carneros – USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros ($20)
Smells of floral perfume and honeysuckle, and I also get some whipped butter and green pear notes. Medium acid on the palate provides counterweight to the creamy body. Honeysuckle and orange blossom mix with yellow and green pears and pineapple. The nutty flavors don’t overwhelm the floral and citrus elements, which makes this a balanced effort. Crisp acid lingers with richer hazelnut notes on the finish. Half the wine was aged six months in 30% new French oak, while the other half spent time in stainless steel, so you get just a hint of the oak, but the wine retains its purity. Great buy at $20. (88 points IJB)

2011 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone White Rocks! – USA, California, North Coast ($18)
Okay, so this isn’t a legit chardonnay, but rather a unique blend of mostly chardonnay with some gewürztraminer Totally tropical on the nose, with white peach, ruby red grapefruit and canned pineapples. On the palate, this wine is plump and juicy, the tropical fruit flavors playing the same riff. Medium acid keeps it from being too thick. Hints of lychee nut, chalk and honeysuckle accent the finish. Who would’ve thought a wine with an exclamation point could be so solid. Open a bottle of this, and bring on summer. (87 points IJB)

Each week, as regular readers know, we pose a series of questions to a winemaker. This week, we’re featuring Tracey Hawkins of Hawk and Horse Vineyards in the Red Hills AVA of Northern California.

A Sonoma County native, wine was always a part of Tracey’s life. So when her stepfather, David Boies, purchased a 1,300-acre ranch in Lower Lake (just north of Napa County) in 1982, she began spending more and more time on the land and envisioning a life there. 

In 1999, Mitch and her husband Mitch took over the operations of the ranch, planting their first vines two years later and renaming the property Hawk and Horse Vineyards. Their first release was in 2004. 

Before founding Hawk and Horse, Tracy spent six years working elsewhere in the industry in wine sales and marketing. She studied winemaking at U.C. Davis and wine marketing at Sonoma State University. 

Check out our interview with Tracey below the fold. Read the rest of this entry »

The hilly countryside around Sicily's Caltanissetta. From Wikipedia.

“Sicily has become the energy center of the Italian winemaking landscape. I’m not talking the area where there is the expectation for the greatest wines from Italy. Piedmont and Tuscany still clamor for their attention and deservedly so. But Sicily has become an emotional center.” Alfonso Cevola reports from Vinitaly. 

Tom Wark offers his thoughts on the latest ShipCompliant/Wines & Vines Direct Wine Shipping Report. 

“It’s actually an ideal test case for the power of persuasion in wine culture.” In Wine Spectator, Ben O’Donnell wonders if “sommeliers, writers and retailers [can] make Sherry happen.'” 

In the Wall Street Journal Europe, Will Lyons offers some basic guidance on food-and-wine pairings. One of his favorites? “Roasted almonds with a chilled glass of Fino sherry.” 

On Find. Eat. Drink., sommelier Ashely Santoro names her favorite rosés and offers some advice on shopping, eating, and drinking to those visiting New York City. 

In the Wall Street Journal, Lettie Teague profiles Brooklyn-based hip-hop artist Sadat X and his producer, Will Tell. They’re better known in the wine community as the “True Wine Connoisseurs.”  

In three parts (One; Two; Three), Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka shares her recent lecture to the students of the UC Davis Viticulture and Enology Program. It’s worth reading. 

“Miljenko Grgich’s life in wine is an object lesson in courageous dedication to a philosophy, supported by empirical evidence, that some wines need no tinkering, and that adhering to old paradigms can create greatness.” In the Press Democrat, Dan Berger celebrates Mike Grgich’s 90th birthday. Meanwhile, in the Napa Valley Register, John Intardonato pens a thoughtful profile of Grgich. 

In South Africa, well-known winemaker Duncan Savage has launched his own project, Savage Wines. Considering the buzz, I hope these wines make it to the United States. (As regular readers may recall, Duncan’s Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is a favorite.

The HoseMaster offers one of his best “What We’re Reading” wrap-ups of the blogosphere.

“[Ribolla Gialla] represented everything impractical but meaningful about the wine business, the business he loved and help lead for 40 years.” In Wine Spectator, James Laube reports on the passing of George Vare. 

Vare Vineyard Ribolla Gialla.

“He is one of the few figures that deserves a place in the US wine industry history books.” From Paul Mabray, a wonderful tribute to George Vare. 

“After visiting, it was clear… that this success was no mere accident.” J.J. Buckley’s Alex Fondren falls for Pontet-Canet’s 2012 offering.

In Wine-Searcher, Tyler Colman writes a brief history of Malbec. Meanwhile, on his blog, Colman wonders if a price increase would “take the wind out of Malbec’s sales?” 

In Edible East End, Eileen Duffy explains why “these are giddy days for lovers of Long Island wine.” 

“If sake doesn’t need scores, then why does wine?” Curiously, as Kyle Schlachter points out, Wine Spectator’s reviews of sake don’t include points. 

“Am I saying that California viticulture is going to be just fine in 35 years? I am not. I am also not saying their will be no more vineyards in Napa as many others are incorrectly assuming.” Elsewhere, Schlachter explains “what the climate study actually said.” 

“Bottom line: Look for wines in which you can sense a culture and a place, wines that provoke questions, and then share them.” Mike Dunne reviews Eric Asimov’s How to Love Wine. 

“Mike and Kendall Officer, owners of Carlisle Winery, have bought a winery in Russian River Valley.” Tim Fish has the details. 

“He’s also credited by the winery with creating Napa’s first cult cab.” In the Chicago Tribune, Bill Daley profiles Andre Tchelistcheff. 

A delightful Blaufrankisch.

“During my stay I fell more for the province’s Blaufrankisch. The wine offers bing cherry fruit and a savory sourness that turns peppery on the finish, not unlike Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley in France or along the eastern U.S. coast.” In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre pays homage to Blaufrankisch.

Matt Kramer muses on the wines that would make his “don’t die without trying it” list.

Aaron Nix-Gomez writes about “The Drink Local Wine Tour of Maryland Wineries.”

According to Alder Yarrow, “Italy Gives France a Run for the Money” when it comes to rosé.

“Roussanne and Marsanne… [are] sometimes too oaky or heavy in some way. Grenache Blanc on the other hand is usually unoaked or just neutrally oaked, and so pure and bright in fruit and acidity, it offers something for everyone.” I agree with Steve Heimoff.

Paul Gregutt lets Eric Asimov raid his cellar.

In Bordeaux, “merchants, retailers and consumers all want lower prices; but châteaus may not be listening.” From Wine Spectator, an update on this year’s En Primeur campaign.

“What do a Formula One racing car drive, a former porn star, and VinItaly, the world’s largest wine fair, have in common?” In Wine-Searcher, Patricia Guy has the answer.

In Wine Enthusiast, Patricia Thomson chats with Ken Loach, the British film director behind “an off-kilter comedy about a whisky heist.”

The Court of Master Sommeliers has added 20 new names to its list of Advanced Sommeliers. Huge congrats to everyone who succeeded!

“As much as we love numbers, history, and the cool factor of drinking something bottled before Paul McCartney met John Lennon, it should be the wine’s character that matters.” Fred Swan names his “favorite library wines from the 2013 Taste of Oakville.”

“I would definitely go to cru Beaujolais — Foillard Morgon Côte de Puy. It’s incredible. It drinks well when it’s young. You can age it. One of the best values out there.” In the Los Angeles Times, S. Irene Virbila chats with Raj Parr.

Black Ankle Vineyards.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

My latest column, which looks at an obscure, emerging wine region here in the United States (Hint: Maryland!) went out this morning.

Blue Crabs, Natty Boh, and World-Class Wine

“Wine is just too fancy for Maryland,” explained Rob Deford, the owner of Boordy Vineyards in Baltimore County, as he discussed the local wine industry’s challenges. “We eat crabs here; we drink beer.”

The audience at this year’s Drink Local Wine conference chuckled in agreement. Blue crabs and Natty Boh are iconic in the Old Line State, but few think of premium wines.

Rob Deford and a handful of other vintners are trying to change that, working to raise the profile of the local wine industry — and increase wine’s popularity among consumers — by raising the quality of Maryland’s wines.

They’re quickly gaining traction.

While the state had just 11 wineries in 2001, it’s now home to 62. And an increasing number of vintners are moving away from the fruit wines and non-European grape varieties that have long plagued the East Coast to produce wines that can compete on the world stage.

Check out the rest of the piece on Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine. 

Some sad news to report. Over the weekend, legendary Napa Valley vintner George Vare passed away. I learned the news from Dan Petroski, who wrote about it in the latest release from Massican:

“Over the weekend George Vare, the man who is directly responsible for bringing Ribolla Gialla to the United States, passed away. A friend, mentor, and leader in the Napa Valley, George was an inspiration for the wines we produce here at Massican. I am blessed to have known and spent time with George.  While his contributions to the industry go beyond his three acres of Ribolla Gialla, to me he will always be the man who, when I met him in his vineyard in August 2009, offered me a generous smile and an infectious enthusiasm for an obscure North East Italian grape variety.”

I was fortunate to meet George once. We were introduced by Robbie Meyer of L’Angevin while I was out in Napa working harvest this past October. We arrived to George’s house unannounced, and after walking through the vineyard, George was gracious enough to chat with us. He talked about how the California wine industry had changed, how excited he was about all the new interest in balanced wines, and even the blogosphere.

Unsurprisingly, we also talked about Ribolla Gialla — and George made a fantastic joke about some of his clients picking too early.

“It’s Ribolla Gialla,” he told me, “not Ribolla Verde!”

By all accounts, George was simply awesome. At various times in the past three years, Robbie Meyer, Steve & Jill Matthiasson, Dan Petroski, Matt Rorick, and countless others went out of their way to talk about George — unprompted — and tell me why he meant so much to them. (Wine writer Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka also thought the world of George, and wrote several excellent pieces on him. See her excellent February piece on orange wines and her four-part series on “Ribolla Gialla University.” One; Two; Three; Four.)

George entered the wine industry in 1972 while an executive with Schlitz Brewing Company. That year, the company purchased Geyser Peak Winery and appointed Vare as president. Over the next few years, he grew Geyser Peak into a 700,000 case winery before resigning to launch a number of other wine brands. George is likely best known for Luna Vineyards, which he founded in 1995 with wine industry veteran Mike Moone.

Our thoughts go out to all George’s friends and family. He’ll be missed. 

“One’s pride in your local teams often does not depend upon the greater success of those teams. These sports teams don’t even have to win championships to have local fans with great pride in their teams… This is a great concept and I wish people would have that same pride in their local wine.” From Richard Auffrey, an interesting take on the drink local wine movement.  

“Rhys Pinot Noir is not only distinctive for the Santa Cruz Mountains, it is unique among wines in North America.” The Prince of Pinot profiles Rhys Vineyards. 

“Wines from the 1970s and 1980s from classic producers are some of California’s most profound bottlings — and they are largely unsung.” In Bloomberg, Elin McCoy explains how “California’s Golden Oldies Reward Savvy Wine Buyers.” 

“Orange wines make people think about how wines are constructed. It breaks the illusion.” Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka writes the third installment in her series on orange wines. 

“Why so many and why have they come along all at once? Perhaps it is simply because wine is such a popular interest worldwide nowadays, and some of the world’s wine fanatics must, by the law of averages, work in the film business.” In the Financial Times, Jancis Robinson reviews five new wine films. 

On the blog for J.J. Buckley, Chuck Hayward offers “An Insider’s Look at This Year’s Pricing and Strategies” at En Primeur.  

Jon Bonné praises California Assemblymember Tom Daly for his efforts to recognize the importance of California’s historic vineyards.  

“It sounds like something Yellow Tail dreamed up.” W. Blake Gray writes about the “best and worst official wine region names in the English-speaking world.” 

In the New York Times, Howard Goldberg selects seven Long Island Pinot Noirs to pair with duck.

Last week, I  attended a Wines of Chile Master Class at Charlie Palmer Steak in DC, led by Master Sommelier Fred Dexheimer. The wines, which ranged from $9 to $85 per bottle (wholesale), didn’t disappoint. They were tasted in three flights — Chardonnay, Workhorse Reds, and Icons.

The Chardonnays were from opposite ends of Chile, literally. Two were from the Limarí Valley, in the north, and one from Malleco, at Chile’s southern end.

Limarí, a subzone of the Coquimbo DO, has historically been known for bulk wine, table grapes, and Pisco distillation. But the region is home to veins of calcareous soil, much like the clay/lime soils of Burgundy. So it’s no surprise that the region is capable of producing Chardonnays with crisp minerality.

Such minerality really showed in the 2012 Merino “Limestone Hill,” which was the most precise Chardonnay of the day and bursting with green apples, tart citrus and a leesy tang which developed while the wine matured in (likely neutral) French oak for one year. Slide this wine one on to your list of “Patio Pounders” this summer.

Also from Limarí, yet on the other side of the Chardonnay spectrum, was the 2012 Concha y Toro “Marques de Casa Concha.” While this might be more popular among grandmas than sommeliers — it’s quite ripe and sees 12 months in French oak, at least some of which is new — it still features enough minerality and acid to be quite enjoyable. Considering this wine lands on some retail shelves under $15, why not?

About 1,000 miles south is the Malleco region. The smallest wine region in Chile, Malleco is home to just 42 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2010 Clos des Foufs “Latuffa” Pinot Noir was wild. Showing a deep color, akin to Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir (perhaps a similar black rock soil?), the nose was overt with notes of garrigue, sage, smoke, and meat. The fruit profile on the palate showed bursting berries and bramble, with the innate acidity of Pinot Noir and a soft grip to it.

Of course, if you want to drink Chile, it’s big red territory. So I was pleased to see the 2009 Emiliana “Coyam” on the table when I walked in. It’s a wine with which I have had a lot of success selling at Bourbon Steak DC and one I would certainly consider ordering myself. This vintage is a biodynamic blend of Syrah, Carmenere, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre & Petit Verdot. A very complex nose brings about dried spices, animale, and ripe dark fruits. Pit it against your favorite chewy Napa or Washington red.

The last flight featured the “icons.” A list of outside Chile’s outside investors reads like who’s who list — Los Vascos and Château Lafite-Rothschild; Concha y Toro and Château Mouton-Rothschild; Miguel Torres; Michel Rolland; etc.  Iconic indeed.

A look into how these wines can age was provided by the 2007 Errázuriz “Don Maximiano.” The structure on this wine featured a regal, even tannin set, refreshing acidity and well-integrated fruit and earth. I’d be excited to try this wine in ten years — or more.

Finally, you can’t talk about Chile without mentioning Carmenere, the forgotten Bordelais variety. Almost extinct elsewhere, when done right, it can produce a fragrant, floral and grippy wine. Tasted on this day was the 2007 Santa Rita “Pehuén” from the Apalta Valley. This wine, like the other reds, balanced a savory green pepper crunch with ripe fruits, here going into the plum, boysenberry and slight raisin categories. Big tannins, no doubt, but again with a long and even finish. This forgotten grape was recently planted by famous St. Émilion   garagiste and wine infidel Jean-Luc Thunevin at Château Valandraud. His reason? “Maybe!”

In case you’re wondering, all the reds, had a pyrazine, or green pepper, character — even the expensive ones. As they should! The Cabernet family of grapes has this characteristic, and if the flavor is integrated, it helps give wine depth, structure, and adaptability to food as a savory component. Many times I’ve seen a quality wine dismissed for this aspect, but honestly, if your Cabernet is not showing some green aspects, that’s the wine that should be put into question.

Now that I’m off my soapbox, drink some Chilean wine!