Antonio Galloni

Jeff Leve breaks the news that the Wine Advocate has filed a lawsuit against Antonio Galloni for withholding tasting notes and fraud. (H/T: Jon Bonné.) 

“And the magic is that over time, wherever you go, more people will not only know your name, they will be pretty accurate in knowing precisely how they can help you.” In Forbes, Shel Israel writes an excellent piece on the awesomeness that is VinTank. 

It’s science: Champagne Boosts Brainpower! 

“Hardy sold his Atlanta home, paid off his mortgage, stowed away all semblances of his corporate existence and hitched on over to California. He was going to immerse himself in a world he’d been dying to enter for a long, long time. Hey there, Napa.” From Bon Appetit, a great profile (with video!) of Hardy Wallace and Dirty & Rowdy. 

In the Wall Street Journal, Ben Worthen writes about the challenge California vintners are having in selling their wines in China. 

To boost U.S. wine sales, South Africa is focusing on Wal-Mart and Whole Foods.  

In Hong Kong, Henry Tang is denying the allegations that some of the wines he auctioned off at Christie’s last week were fake. 

On Forbes.com, John LaMattina — the former president of Pfizer Global Research — writes a fascinating piece on Glaxo’s research into resveratrol. 

Michael Franz offer his “four top tips for getting the most out of you wine when things turn hot.” 

“How is it possible that in the most rabidly capitalist country on earth, where consumer choice has beaten out common sense for decades… we prevent almost one in three Americans from spending their money when and where they please?” On JancisRobinson.com, Alder Yarrow writes about the fight for wine consumers rights (subscription required). 

In Bloomberg, Mark Gimein wonders if the wine auction market is still bursting.

From Rizwan Mehmood.

“If I had to pick out one wine that flipped a switch, it was a 1978 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba that I drank as a graduate student in the early 1980s.” Jeff Leve sits down with Eric Asimov.

“If you really want to know fine wine, forget the past. The real action today lies in the future — which, paradoxically, is already here.” In his latest WineSpectator.com column, Matt Kramer explains why “fine wine today is much more about the future than ever it was.”

“Focused is probably the best word to describe de Vink.” In Richmond Magazine, Brandon Fox writes a wonderful profile of Rutger de Vink and RdV Vineyards.

In Wine-Searcher, a wonderful excerpt from Philippe Claudel’s “Le Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.” The topic? Growing up near the legendary estate.

“Where some California Syrahs drink like the winemakers behind them are experimenting with their techniques… Jamsheed drinks like wine already comfortable without being boring.” Lily-Elaine Hawk Wakawaka strongly endorses the offerings from Jamsheed Wines in Australia’s Yarra Valley.

“In the world of wine and spirits, we’ve been told that older is always better.” But it isn’t.

The Press Democrat reports that Francis Ford Coppola Winery has acquired Geyser Peak Winery and its 32 acres of vineyards.

Decanter.com highlights Randall Grahm, who will soon be awarded a lifetime achievement award from the Rhone Rangers. 

Tom Steffanci, president at Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits — which imports household names like Yellow Tail and Georges Duboeuf — sits down with FoxBusiness.

Randall Grahm.

As regular readers know, I write a free, twice monthly wine column that’s distributed to newspapers across the country.

These columns are hosted by Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine. If you don’t see my column in your local newspaper, please send an email to your paper’s editor and CC me (David – at – Terroirist.com).

My latest column, which celebrates the American winemakers who dedicate themselves to the varieties made famous in France’s Rhone Valley, went out this morning.

Celebrating America’s Rhone Rangers

This week, more than 100 wine producers are gathering in San Francisco to celebrate America’s take on the 22 grape varieties originally made famous in France’s Rhone Valley.

The producers — known collectively as the “Rhone Rangers” — trace their roots to the 1980s, when a small group of California vintners dedicated to these varieties began meeting informally.

One of these winemakers was Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Although best known for his flamboyant and irreverent marketing campaigns, Grahm was among the first American winemakers to embrace varietals like Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre. So when the Wine Spectator dubbed Grahm “The Rhone Ranger” in 1989, the moniker stuck.

As the organization began to grow, these Rhone Rangers realized that if they worked together, they’d all benefit. So in the late 1990s, they formally organized and began promoting their work. The group helped catalyze — and revive — the planting of Rhone varieties across the country.

But they still have lots of work to do.

Check out the rest of the piece on Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine.

Some prominent wine writers have been nominated for the 2013 James Beard Awards! In the Individual Food Blog category, Alder Yarrow is in the running. Eric Asimov’s How to Love Wine is in contention for the year’s top beverage book. And Lettie Teague has been named a finalist among food columnists. Good luck to everyone!

In Wine-Searcher, Rebecca Gibb brings attention to the questions raised by Don Cornwell over the authenticity of several lots sold at Christie’s recent auction of Henry Tang’s wines in Hong Kong.

Andrew Jefford heads to southern France to “ask what St Chinian, an AOC since 1982, has to offer.”

Jeff Siegel unpacks the latest wine sales data.

“I have a passion for history, and for these wines, so I decided to save them.” Jancis Robinson praises the Vins Doux Naturels from Philippe Gayral in Roussillon.

“Go forth, food writers, and use ‘varietal’ as a noun meaning ‘wine grape variety.’ Tell the grammar police to boldly go to hell.” W. Blake Gray muses on the distinction between “variety” and “varietal.”

Silicon Valley Bank’s Rob McMillan explains why it’s so difficult for wineries to implement successful direct-to-consumer programs.

Wine Spectator has reviewed (blind!) the new Provençal rosé from Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. 90 points!

“The more I flipped the pages, the more I realized I was in a wine lover’s dream: a restaurant that treats diners of every socioeconomic status — not just wealthy collectors — with respect.” Dave McIntyre praises the wine list at Range, a new restaurant from Top Chef alum Bryan Voltaggio in Washington, DC.

Howard Goldberg is impressed with Long Island’s first offerings from 2012.

Robert Whitley awards Feudi di San Gregorio’s 2008 Serpico a perfect score.

It’s no secret that I love America’s Rhone-style wines.

I’ve long enjoyed the offerings from L’Aventure, Qupe, and Bonny Doon. The wines from Two Shepherds — a new project from blogger-turned-winemaker William Allen — are worth seeking out.

So I’m stoked that Terroirist is able to offer TWO FREE TICKETS to the Grand Tasting for this weekend’s Rhone Rangers event in San Francisco!

From 3pm till 6pm Saturday, attendees will have the chance to taste more than 500 wines from over 100 Rhone Rangers member wineries. Like last year, consumers will once again be able to purchase wines!

Tickets are just $50. This year’s celebration will also include a winemaker dinner and some very cool seminars.  And I’ll be there!

FREE TICKETS!
To have a chance to win a FREE PAIR OF TICKETS (a $100 value!) to the Grand Tasting, just leave a comment naming your FAVORITE American Rhone-style wine. For an extra entry, tweet to me (@terroiristblog) and the Rhone Rangers (@RhoneRangers) with your favorite American Rhone-style wine, using the hashtag #RRSF.

The contest ends tomorrow, March 18, at 8:00pm ET. Good luck!

James Barrett

WineSpectator.com reports: “James L. Barrett, owner of Chateau Montelena in Napa Valley, passed away March 14. He was 86.” Eric Asimov and Jon Bonné have both penned thoughtful obituaries. 

“Many of the wineries that helped build the valley’s, and California’s, reputation for greatness are thriving.” In the San Francisco Chronicle, Jon Bonné commends Napa’s wine pioneers.  

“Fortunately, many years have passed since observant Jews were compelled to subject themselves to the plague of bad wine. Now, the kosher choices are vast and the quality fairly high.” Eric Asimov goes shopping for kosher wine. 

Eric Pfanner heads to the Province of Asti to get a closer look at real Moscato. 

“[Scores] kill the conviviality of the wines and they don’t make people become kind.” On Decanter.com, globetrotting wine consultant Stéphane Derencourt chats with Kyle Schlachter. Meanwhile, on his blog, Kyle tastes through the 2009 lineup of his Derenoncourt California wines. 

Table To Grave assembles a great group of somme­liers, writers, and one wine­maker to discuss Chardonnay. 

NPR’s Planet Money visits the Outer Coastal Plain to ponder the future of New Jersey’s wine industry. 

“A Formula One pit stop coordinator, a farmer, a documentary film star, a Cambridge graduate, a buggy builder, and a winemaker with seemingly unlimited potential.” In the latest newsletter from Weygandt Wines, Sarah Hexter profiles David Clark, whose life is “breath of fresh air in insular Burgundy.” 

William Allen of Two Shepherds explains why all America’s Rhone enthusiasts — and wineries — owe Randall Grahm a debt of gratitude. 

Richard Jennings shares his notes from this year’s ZAP Zinfandel Festival. 

In the New York Times Magazine, Jeanine Celeste sits down with Andrew and Adam Mariani of Scribe Winery. 

Tom Wark reviews Nose, a mystery novel from James Conway about a perfect bottle of wine. 

Each week, as regular readers know, we pose a series of questions to a winemaker. This week, we’re featuring Giampaolo Venica from Venica & Venica in Fruili, Italy.

Giampaolo Venica.

Venica & Vencia traces its roots to 1930 when Giampaolo’s great grandfather, Daniele, purchased a small house and plot of land in Dolegna del Collio.

After World War II, Daniele started farming on the property — and because he was growing grapes, he also began producing wine. As he began selling his excess wine and fruit to area restaurants, Daniele and his son Adelchi began purchasing abandoned vineyards and expanding their wine production.

A family winery, Daniele passed the winery to his son Adelchi, who passed it along to his two sons, Gianni and Giorgio.

Giampaolo, Gianni’s son, studied both viticulture and enology in school and then headed to California, South Africa, and Bordeaux to hone his craft. Upon his return, he began managing exports for the family winery. Just recently, Giampaolo took over the winery with his sister and cousins. So the family’s winemaking tradition remains quite strong.

Check out our interview with Giampaolo below the fold! Read the rest of this entry »

The wines at RdV's Brown Bag Salon tasting.

“These are world-class wines. If your palate prefers Napa or Bordeaux, that’s fine. But I think RdV belongs on this table.” 

So stated Rutger de Vink, the proprieter of Virginia-based RdV Vineyards, shortly after revealing that he had just served his two cuvées alongside a 2009 Caymus Special Selection and a 2009 Château Lynch-Bages. 

It was at that same moment I realized that I had confused RdV’s “Lost Mountain” for the Lynch-Bages. So I certainly agreed. 

RdV Vineyards has received an enormous amount of positive press coverage. In September 2011, Jancis Robinson declared that de Vink’s “considerable efforts stand a good chance of putting [Virginia] on the world wine map.” Two months later, W. Blake Gray visited the winery and proclaimed RdV’s cuvées to be “striking, serious, over-90-point wines.” Washington Post wine columnist Dave McIntyre has made no secret of the fact that he’s a fan. 

Beginning tomorrow, in a move that can only idea be described as gutsy, the winery is opening its doors to the public on select Saturdays for a “Brown Bag Salon” tasting. RdV’s two wines — Lost Mountain and Rendezvous — will be served, blind, alongside world-class wines from Bordeaux and California.

The inspiration for the format came after the Wine Advocate’s David Schildknecht visited last year. In a post where he named the 2010 RdV Rendezvous one of his “Best Wines of 2012,” Schildknecht wrote, “Could you ever have some fun with brown-bagged RdV bottles!” 

RdV Vineyards.

Without question, de Vink also decided on such a move because he has lots left to prove. The audience for $88 wines is limited. And many of the enthusiasts willing to drop so much coin stick exclusively to Napa, Bordeaux, or points. And de Vink doesn’t want to be a “regional” wine. He wants consumers at top restaurants in cities like New York, San Francisco, Chicago, and Los Angeles ordering RdV. He’s hopeful that this format will help generate even more buzz for a winery that’s become a darling of the press but hasn’t yet caught fire with consumers, wine buyers, and sommeliers. 

It’s pricey, to be sure. The cost is $60 per person. But for those who want to see the potential — and future — of Virginia wine, I can’t think of a better way to spend a Saturday. (In case you missed it, Dave McIntyre recently wrote a piece detailing the salon experience.)

Rowdy & Dirty, respectively.

“For a guy with a jocular reputation, Wallace sounds startlingly serious about winemaking.” In Palate Press, Evan Dawson writes a wonderful profile of Hardy Wallace and Dirty & Rowdy Family Winery. 

“For the wine lover, walking through its carpet of vines, country lanes and medieval houses, Pomerol represents an enchanting wonderland.” Will Lyons heads “beyond Saint-Émilion.” 

“Can a porn star make a decent red wine?” In Celebrity Vineyards, Nick Wise finds out. Wine-Searcher has an excerpt. 

Also in Wine-Searcher, a look at some of the many tributes flowing in for Henri Krug. Wine Spectator has published a thoughtful obituary.

Joseph & Curtis chat with legendary vintner Dr. Konstantin Frank. 

Jamie Goode chimes in on the decision by Raventos i Blanc to withdraw from Spain’s Cava D.O. 

“For the last 30 years, women have been vibrant cogs in California’s wine country machinery.” In the Press Democrat, Dan Berger explains why “writing about the female impact on the wine cellar is nearly a non-story.” 

Obnoxious sommeliers might have disappeared, but according to the New York Post, the “snooty mixologist” is now “the fastest-rising beast in hospitality.” 

Joe Roberts tastes his way through the 2010 lineup from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti!

Simon Tam (Christie's).

“I was born under an alder tree on a hippy commune in northern California.” In Wine-Searcher, Rebecca Gibb sits down with Alder Yarrow of Vinography. It’s a fantastic interview! 

“Simon Tam, head of wine in China at Christie’s auction house, says his team has stopped translating the tasting notes written by the firm’s London and New York experts, which are filled with references to European fruits and flowers not commonly available in Asia.” In the Wall Street Journal Asia, a fascinating piece on the linguistic challenges associated with selling wine in Asia. 

On his blog, Jon Bonné offers more thoughts on “the charms of Sicilian wine.” 

Late last year, Raventos i Blanc announced that it had decided to withdraw from Spain’s Cava D.O. and file for a new one: Conca del Riu Anoia. Dr. Vino asked the owner why.

W. Blake Gray was curious to learn about the wine selection process at Whole Foods. So he interviewed Joseph Kaulbach, who supervises the wine and cheese division for Whole Foods’ Northern California stores. 

In 7×7 SF, Courtney Humiston suggests drinking the rosé from Peay, Matthiasson, and Farmers Jane this spring. 

Thanks to Bouchard Père & Fils, Panos Kakaviatos recently got “a bird’s eye view” of Burgundy’s 2010 vintage. 

Steve Heimoff confesses that there are “a lot of candy bar wines in California.” 

Ed Thralls, the blogger behind Wine Tonite, officially launches Thralls Family Wines! 

Eric Asimov has been inducted to the James Beard Foundation’s “Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America.”