Interviewing Peter Weygandt (Part 3 of 4)

Posted by | Posted in Videos | Posted on 05-23-2012

This week, I’ve been posting pieces of our four-part video interview with wine importer Peter Weygandt.

In Part 1, published Monday, we discussed how Peter fell in love with wine and why he decided to start importing and retailing. In Part 2, published yesterday, Peter explained how he finds new producers and offered his thoughts on France’s 2011 harvest.

In Part 3, Peter talks about his favorite wines and offers some advice for those who are looking to get acquainted with European wines.

Enormous thanks to Lisa Mathias, our videographer.

Daily Wine News: Changing Tastes

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-23-2012

“I could envision drinking Riesling for the rest of my life on a regular basis. And white Burgundy. And those lovely crisp white wines from Italy. Even the occasional Chardonnay… But what about all those reds in my closet?” Alfonso Cevola looks at how his palate has changed over the years, and wonders if other oenophiles have experienced anything similar.

“When a group of Italian vintners came through” Portland, Katherine Cole “snagged three of Piedmont’s most interesting producers to ask them some questions about their craft as part of [her] ongoing quest to discover what makes their wines so appealing.”

On a trip to Australia, Joe Roberts concludes that petrol notes in Riesling are not a fault.

Is Chardonnay automatically is better than Sauvignon Blanc? Steve Heimoff thinks so, but he has “enough self-examinative doubt to wonder.”

Mike Veseth thinks that “‘great wines, great values’ may soon be within Chilean wine’s grasp.”

Over on the VinTank blog, Paul Mabray explains what it’s like to be a “5th Column Company” in the wine industry.

According to Financial Times’ investment columnist John Authers, investors will briefly move into wine if the Eurozone collapses.

On Tuesday, Decanter announced the results of its 2012 World Wine Awards.

“With its higher elevations, cool climate and good viticulture opportunities, Idaho’s untapped potential is unbelievable.” So contends Andrew Browne, the CEO of Seattle-based Precept Wine, which just purchased Idaho’s oldest and largest producer, Ste. Chapelle Winery.

“Some of my friends have no use for rosé. I feel sorry for them, even though that means more of the pink stuff for me.” So proclaims Bill Ward.

This week, Treasury Wine Estates started “rolling out a new addition to the Beringer brand –White Zinfandel Moscato.”

Interviewing Peter Weygandt (Part 2 of 4)

Posted by | Posted in Videos | Posted on 05-22-2012

Yesterday, I posted the first part of our four-part video interview with wine importer Peter Weygandt, where we discussed how Peter fell in love with wine and why he decided to start importing and retailing.

In the second part of our series, Peter explains how he finds new producers and offers his thoughts on France’s 2011 harvest. Enormous thanks to Lisa Mathias, our videographer.

Daily Wine News: Rewriting Rules

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-22-2012

This summer, try a Guinness.

“For too long, seasonal drinking has been considered a matter of color: reds for the cold; rosés and whites for the heat. Similar rules hold with beer.” In the New York Times, Eric Asimov rewrites the rules of summertime drinking.

According to Tim Ferguson, New York restaurateur Paul Grieco has fallen for New Zealand Riesling.

In the Financial Times, Jancis Robinson profiles Nicolas Potel’s “Collection Bellenum,” which promises “a treasure trove for Burgundy lovers without a well-stocked cellar of their own.”

Bank Atcharawan, the legendary manager of Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas, announces his departure on Facebook.

In Palate Press, W. Blake Gray details an accidental discussion with eight Santa Barbara County winemakers “about that perennial favorite topic in California, alcohol level.”

Jeff Siegel details “five of the most annoying [wine] facts that really aren’t.”

In the Atlanta Journal Constitution, Gil Kulers profiles Jacob Gragg of Aria, the city’s newest Advanced Sommelier.

From the New York Times travel section, “36 Hours in Napa Valley.”

Wine Spectator shares all James Molesworth’s scores from his 2011 Bordeaux barrel tastings.

“Wine industry economics in California have changed dramatically in the last year… as more wine producers realize the marketplace for grapes and wine in bulk won’t be large enough to keep pace with sales of finished wine.” In the North Bay Business Journal, a look at the various strategies California’s growers and vintners will employ to combat the wine grape shortage.

Decanter has announced the launch of DecanterChina.com, a new Chinese language website.

Interviewing Peter Weygandt (Part 1 of 4)

Posted by | Posted in Videos | Posted on 05-21-2012

It’s no secret that I think wine importer Peter Weygandt has one of the best portfolios. And his retail shop — Weygandt Wines — is one of my favorite shops in DC.

So I recently got together with Peter Weygandt to learn how he fell in love with wine, why he decided to start importing and retailing, and what excites him.

Enormous thanks to Lisa Mathias, our videographer. (If you’re interested in food, Lisa also serves as Foodspotting’s DC Ambassador.)


Daily Wine News: Esoterica

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-21-2012

A Sauternes vineyard.

In Sauternes, according to Will Lyons, “the economics of the region aren’t as straightforward as elsewhere.”

According to Jay McInerney, the wines of Beaujolais “are perfect for a summer fling, compatible with most of the food that will come off your grill in the next few months.”

“[Wine people] have been nerding out over esoterica for decades. Food is the new rock? Chefs are the new rock stars? Maybe. One thing I can tell you for sure: Wine has been burdened with this level of potentially unhealthy obsession since well before Proust fetishized that damn madeleine.” So contends Jon Bonné amid numerous stories that “food is the new rock.”

Dr. Vino brings attention to a great article in Art Info about the changing market for fine wine at Hong Kong wine auctions, and wonder if analysts are ignoring the impact of Rudy Kurniawan.

In a tasting of 60 wines from the 2009 vintage of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Jon Bonné and his tasting panel “found wines that exemplified the power of Napa and the freshness and aging potential of great Cabernet.” Lots of praise for CorisonTorLarkmead, and big names like the Hess CollectionRobert Mondavi, and Louis M. Martini.

Bill Foley is “adding two more wine estates to his growing company — one in Napa Valley and another in New Zealand’s Marlborough region.”

A really interesting conclusion from John Trinidad: “Sideways may have increased Pinot’s popularity, but ultimately may have had a negative impact on the variety. It turned Pinot into an overplanted and overpriced grape. In other words, Sideways made Pinot into Merlot.”

“You feel [McInerney] should have grown up by now, got all that fast living out of his system. But he hasn’t and, oddly, that’s part of his charm.” In the Observer, William Skidelsky sits down with Jay McInerney.

Isaac James Baker writes about a recent tasting of nine rosés.

Weekly Interview: Ted Lemon

Posted by | Posted in Interviews | Posted on 05-18-2012

Courtesy of Rémy Charest (2008).

Each week, as regular readers know, we pose a series of questions to a winemaker. This week, we’re featuring Ted Lemon, who launched Littorai, in western Sonoma County, with his wife Heidi in 1993.

Ted’s winemaking career began in Burgundy, when he received an enology degree from the Université de Dijon in 1981. Over the next few years, Ted immersed himself in the Burgundian wine culture, working at a “who’s who list” of fine producers, including Domaine De Villaine and Domaine Dujac. He soon landed a position as the head winemaker and vineyard manager of  Domaine Guy Roulot in Meursault, becoming the first American to have such a position in Burgundy.

Ted returned to the United States in 1984, and would go on to work at or consult with a number of wineries, including Chateau Woltner, Franciscan, Clos Pegase, Green and Red Vineyard, Reverie, Black Sears, Archery Summit in Oregon, Burn Cottage Vineyard in New Zealand, and many more.

Littorai, Latin for “coasts,” specializes in single vineyard wines from the Anderson Valley, Sonoma Coast, and Russian River Valley. As Littorai’s website makes clear, the Lemons are passionate about the earth. They take sustainability to the next level, hosting an entire farm to give the vines everything they need, naturally. The winery, completed in 2008, uses hay as its insulation and plant-recycled water.

A benchmark producer to those in the “In Pursuit of Balance” movement, all Ted’s wines show purity of fruit and bright acid.

Check out our interview below the fold.

Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Holding Steady

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-18-2012

Despite the recession, U.S. wine consumption held steady between 2008 and 2011, according to a new report from the Wine Market Council.

What do wine, whiskies, coffee, tea, cheese, honey, and olive oil have in common? They each express terroir. Nonetheless, Robert Joseph thinks terroir is irrelevant to most people.

“Take a look around; there is an embarrassment of riches available in Italian wines in America. Better than ever before.” Alfonso Cevola looks at the past 35 years of Italian wine in America. (H/T: Eric Asimov.)

Alder Yarrow returns from Hungary.

“After ten years and 600 million bottles, how is Two-Buck Chuck still just two bucks?” Artjoms Konohovs of San Francisco’s KALW tries to answer that question.

In Palate Press, Kyle Schlachter profiles The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey in Cañon City, Colorado.

Elsewhere in Palate Press, Remy Charest explains how the Languedoc is “trying to show its identity.”

Paul Gregutt is sick of so much oak.

In Wine Spectator, Tim Fish drinks some old vintages of Pinot with Milla Handley, one of Anderson Valley’s first winemakers.

Elsewhere in Wine Spectator, Dr. Vinny answers a question I’ve long had — how does one decant wine yet also serve it at a cooler temperature?

In the Miami Herald, Fred Tasker writes a strong defense of rosé. (Who knew it needed defending?)

Talia Baiocchi tells us where to drink in Montreal, right now.

Fox News details “nine restaurants across the country where it’ll cost you to BYOB.”

Daily Wine News: Ancient Vin Jaune

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 05-17-2012

Courtesy of Christie's.

Matt Kramer details three things that “restaurants, retailers, wineries and, yes, wine writers” don’t want you to know.

On Tuesday, a bottle of 238-year-old Vin Jaune from Arbois (in the eastern Jura) sold for nearly $50,000.

“This isn’t cat pee, it’s tiger pee.” In the San Jose Mercury News, Jessica Yadegaran writes about the allure of orange wine. (In case you’re wondering, that fantastic quote comes courtesy of Abe Schoener of Scholium Wines.)

“I have not found anything — not a drug, not a piece of technology, not a new-age technique — that can preserve connections like wine can.” In New York Cork Report, Evan Dawson writes a fantastic essay explaining why he writes about wine.

On the blog for First Vine, Tom Natan writes a a fasctinating piece on a scientific study looking at the damaging effects of heat exposure on wine during transport and storage. (He was inspired by a piece on the same study in Academic Wino.)

Lulu Roberts, author of FoodAndWineSF.com, shares her impressions from the recent Pink Out! event hosted by the Rosé Avengers and Producers. In her post, she details her 8 top wines from the tasting.

Over on the Wine-Searcher blog, an edited transcript of a recent TEDx talk from Canadian sommelier and writer François Chartier, where he discusses how he’s applied scientific principles to food and wine pairing. It’s a long but super interesting read.

In the Huffington Post, Richard Jennings writes a primer on Spanish wine — and explains how to find good values that are ready to drink.

In the Sacramento Bee, Mike Dunne writes the monks of the Abbey of New Clairvaux, who are making some exciting wines in Tehama County.

BottleNotes reports on the 40th birthday celebrations of Clos du Val and Silver Oak.

In Wines & Vines, an article on Platy Preserve — a wine-preservation system that looks pretty useful.

Obelisk: A Monumental Wine List

Posted by | Posted in Grape Adventures | Posted on 05-16-2012

Uploaded to Flikr by Corey L. Kliewer

Last week, I was treated to dinner at one of DC’s few hidden gems, Obelisk in Dupont Circle. I’d heard many positive reviews, but I was nonetheless surprised to discover that Obelisk is, in fact, a “true” Italian restaurant — with fresh, top-quality ingredients and well-executed, simple preparations. But I won’t start blubbering about the best burrata I’ve tasted in the United States — this is a wine blog.

Instead, I will extol the merits of Obelisk’s wine list. It’s short. It’s handwritten. It’s all Italian. I was impressed.

I’m convinced that the art of putting together an exciting wine list hasn’t quite caught on in DC. Yes, CityZen, Citronelle, Proof, Bourbon Steak, and Blue Duck Tavern all have venerable, deep wine programs. For the sake of simplicity, let’s call those “first generation” wine lists.

Restaurants like Ripple and Dino have exploratory, expansive lists, which are rooted in the classics but tend to venture away from Napa, Bordeaux and Tuscany. These are our “second generation” lists. And while I’m surely excluding other excellent wine lists around the District, my point is that there are only a handful of noteworthy examples, and they tend to fall into one of these two categories.

Obelisk’s wine list is a different creature altogether. While Citronelle’s list is classic and comprehensive, Obelisk’s list is thought provoking, tightly curated, and exclusionist. It is the Hirschhorn to Citronelle’s National Gallery of Art. Let’s call it a third generation wine list.

We drank only two bottles at Obelisk, but they sat on opposite ends of the traditional-to-über-hip spectrum. First was a 2009 Coenobium Rusticum from Monastero Suore Cistercensi, an “orange” wine from Lazio that is a blend of Trebbiano, Verdicchio, Malvasia and Grechetto. It was appropriately served to us at cellar temperature. It was more golden than orange, but the extended skin contact during fermentation and slight oxidization gave it a structure you rarely see in whites.

Some of the more adventurous wine lists around the city offer one or two “orange” wines, but Obelisk has an entire section for them between the Whites and Roses called “Whites made like Reds.”

The second bottle was a twist on a classic: a 2008 Fratelli Brovia Nebbiolo d’Alba from the region of Piedmont. It was tannic but approachable and somewhat fruit-forward for a Nebbiolo, with great acidity. And although this wine is made with a typical grape from a well-known producer, it is unusual to see a Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC in the United States — a rare treat.

These wines typify the best aspects of a third generation wine list. These lists boast wines chosen to complement the venue’s food, with an eye to impressing the savvy customer. The wines are often challenging, but they’re delicious and relatively affordable. It is the kind of list that persuades the diner to interact with the sommelier, and hopefully learn something new.

It’s disappointing that there aren’t more of these kinds of wine lists around the city. DC is home to some of the most celebrated beer lists and avant-garde mixologists in the country — hopefully it’s only a matter of time until the city embraces wine with the same enthusiasm. And if you have suggestions of other wine lists that would fall in this category, please share in the comments!