Daily Wine News: Empty Slate

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 08-26-2011

Mike Steinberger.

For several years now, I’ve told everyone who will listen that Mike Steinberger is the world’s best wine writer. As regular readers may recall, I was thrilled when he launched his blog, Wine Diarist, back in February. Yesterday, Steinberger confirmed (on twitter) that his wine column was cut in Slate’s latest round of layoffs. His column will be sorely missed, but I’m excited for whatever’s next. As Dr. Vino wrote, Steinberger “writes with tremendous verve, brio, wit, knowledge, and a nose for a good story as well as a great wine.”

Wine writer Karen MacNeil has become editor in chief of The Daily Sip, the e-newsletter of Bottlenotes.com. In the Daily Beast, MacNeil sits down with Sophie Menin to talk about her new role, why women drink different wine than men, and what she’s drinking and loving now.

The upcoming ceremony for the 2012 Vintner’s Hall of Fame inductees is already generating controversy. To calm some controversy – and answer some questions – W. Blake Gray, chairman of the Vintners Hall of Fame Electoral College, names this year’s nominees.

Joe Roberts wonders if Pinot Noir has found a new spiritual home in the West Sonoma Coast.

In Napa Valley, “the kids are back in school, September just around the corner, but the harvest has yet to begin.”

On Eater, Talia Baiocchi wonders if farm-to-table restaurants are hypocrites for not serving local wine.

This is the final weekend of our contest! If you’re interested in a new Riedel decanter or a snazzy corkscrew, time is running out!

Apparent Oak or Stealth Oak?

Posted by | Posted in Out of the Glass | Posted on 08-25-2011

Uploaded to flickr by martinvarsavsky.

In a recent installment of Drinking Out Loud, Matt Kramer put forward five questions that “divide” the wine world.

These questions strike at the heart of the most conflict-ridden issues among oenophiles. Over the last two weeks, I’ve tackled Kramer’s first two questions (“Power or Finesse?” and “Old School or New Wave?”). This week, “it’s Apparent Oak or Stealth Oak?”

This question has irked me for some time. Quite simply, if I taste more of the barrel than the fruit so painstakingly cared for from bud break to harvest, then why on earth am I taking another sip? If I spend hundreds of hours in the vineyard, and then all of a few minutes topping off another brand new heavy toast barrique, then what is my total net worth for all I invested throughout the year? Flavor-wise, basically nil.

I am personally not opposed to the use of oak in elevage; its ability to manage the exchange of oxygen has long been proven to deter reduction and to soften tannin. Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Fake Reviews!

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 08-25-2011

Drops of God, the Japanese comic.

After reading last Saturday’s New York Times  story on the booming market for fake online reviews, Mike Steinberger reached out to Eric LeVine, the founder of CellarTracker, “to ask if he was concerned about phony or deliberately misleading tasting notes.” (Tom Wark chimed in on this issue earlier this week.)

“Forget point systems and stuffy critics: Since 2004, the most powerful wine people in Asia are… comic book writers.” In Gilt Taste, Tejal Rao has the details.

On July 16, the “Historic Vineyard Society” which aims to educate the public of America’s documented old-vine vineyards, held its first event. The details are now online.

In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre laments the fact that Spain “has a treasure-trove of white wines that are unfortunately overshadowed by its reds.” So he explores Spain’s whites.

The British Drinks Business magazine highlights the top 10 wine scandals in history. (H/T: The Wine Curmudgeon. “And who says wine is a bunch of stuffy old guys sitting around a room sniffing and spitting?”)

Wondering how to recycle all your corks? Hire a skilled couturier to make a wedding dress!

Andrew Jefford opposes the word “Britagne” for English Sparkling Wine. As he explains, “the better that English sparkling wine gets… the more authoritative ‘English Sparkling Wine’ will begin to sound. Names do indeed matter; but novelty in nomenclature is hazardous and ephemeral, while the plainest names, like the simplest tools, have a habit of enduring.”

Lettie Teague memorializes New York vineyard manager Dave Mudd, who passed away last weekend at the age of 90. According to Teague, Mudd “may have been responsible for more wines than any other vineyard manager in America.”

Sommelier Interview: Min Kwon & BlackSalt

Posted by | Posted in Interviews | Posted on 08-24-2011

Min Kwon.

I met this week’s sommelier extraordinaire when he was sitting in on the WSET Advanced exam last month. Min Kwon runs the wine program at BlackSalt in Washington, DC. If you’ve never been to BlackSalt, you MUST go. I used to live just down the street, and they have the freshest and most deliciously prepared seafood dishes, as well as a fish market in the front of the restaurant where you can pick up wonderful scallops, salmon, etc. to cook for dinner. Not surprisingly, BlackSalt’s wine list has lots of seafood friendly pours, but also has the depth and breadth you might expect out of a fancy steak restaurant.

Great news for DC residents/visitors — BlackSalt is opening a new restaurant early September on 14th Street NW between Q & R. Pearl Dive Oyster Palace will be downstairs as a more casual yet still chef driven concept. Upstairs will be BlackJack, a speak easy style bourbon bar with a built in bocce ball court. Yes, please.

So, a little more about Min – he’s Court Certified, WSET advanced (he’s pretty positive he passed it :)) and was born and bred in the DC area. Read on below:

When and how did you fall in love with wine?

I can remember the exact bottle. It was a 2001 Clos des Truffiers almost exactly 3 years ago. I remember the way it evolved as it opened. I knew that at that time there was no one else on the planet that was having the same experience I was. It wasn’t as much as falling in love, but rather opening Pandora’s Box. I wanted to know the reason it tasted like it did. I was hooked. Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: @GaryVee Bids Farewell to @DailyGrape

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 08-24-2011

Gary Vaynerchuk bids farewell to regular wine video.

Yesterday, Gary Vaynerchuk announced his retirement from producing regular wine video content. I was a huge fan of both WineLibraryTV and the Daily Grape, so I’m sad to see him go. Dr. Vino has more, and wonders what “Gary’s departure mean for wine video.” Many will be asking that question.

When Italian artist-turned-wine-merchant Piero Lugano wanted to start producing sparkling wine from indigenous varieties grown in vineyards overlooking the Golfo Paradiso, he encountered a problem of space — he simply didn’t have any. So he turned to the sea. And it worked.

Gilt Groupe, the online flash sale site, has launched Gilt Wine. Wall Street Journal wine writer Jay McInerney is impressed.

Lettie Teague falls head over heels for the wine list at Passionfish in Pacific Grove, California. (As loyal readers surely know, we interviewed Passionfish sommelier Jannae Lizza earlier this year.)

Wine Spectator sits down with Michael Bublé to chat about wine.

The Sonoma Police Department and the California Department of Alcohol Beverage Control have teamed up to crack down on wineries that pour tastings for teenagers. You know, because so many teens are itching for $40/bottle Pinot Noir and Grenache. After all, California’s tax dollars are in abundant supply — and this is an important priority.

From Punk to Pinot: CityZen’s Andy Myers

Posted by | Posted in Grape Adventures | Posted on 08-23-2011

CityZen sommelier Andy Myers.

In the latest issue of Flavor, a magazine dedicated to the DC area’s food and wine scene, I have an article profiling Andy Myers, the sommelier at CityZen. (CityZen is headed up by Eric Ziebold, the former chef de cuisine at the French Laundry, and it’s one of DC’s swankiest restaurants.)

Earlier this month, Myers sat for the final stage of the daunting Master Sommelier Exam. Unfortunately, he didn’t pass. But fortunately, just a couple weeks before his exam, I was able to spend some time with Myers during his training.

Check out a preview of my article below the fold – and the full piece on Flavor’s website. Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Corks & Cancer

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 08-23-2011

Uploaded to flickr by Josep Ma. Rosell.

Before launching Washington DC-based First Vine Wine Imports + Sales, Tom Natan’s career was dedicated to toxic chemical issues. So when Patrick Spencer, Director of Cork Forest Conservation Alliance, implied that screw caps and plastic closures could lead to cancer at the Wine Bloggers’ Conference, he just couldn’t swallow it. Check out Tom’s post – it’s excellent.

Remy Charest looks at Wine From Here, a documentary by Martin and Matthieu Carel that’s premiering on Thursday night in San Francisco.

Wow. Words fail. Long Island’s Lieb Cellars is selling a September 11 memorial wine from grapes that were grown just “90 miles from the site of the World Trade Center.” Even better? It’s priced at $19.11 a bottle!

In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre writes about Charles Krug and the recent upgrades to its vineyards and winery. On his blog, McIntyre writes more – detailing the changes are impacting the wine.

In his latest column, Eric Asimov pays homage to Barbera.

Joe Roberts reviews Alice Feiring’s new book, Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally.

New York Times tech columnist Bob Tedeschi follows up on his recent in-depth look at the leading wine apps by analyzing a handful more.

Drinking with the Nutty Professor

Posted by | Posted in Grape Adventures | Posted on 08-22-2011

Abe Schoener.

Thirteen years ago, Abe Schoener – then a professor of ancient Greek philosophy at St. John’s College in Maryland — headed to the Bay Area for a brief sabbatical.

At the time, he was already a wine nut and had become quite interested in plant physiology. So after arriving in San Francisco, his wife encouraged him to look for a job in Napa Valley. Shortly thereafter, he landed an internship at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars.

While there, he met John Kongsgaard, whose children were interested in St. John’s. The two men hit it off and admired one another’s intellect. So even though Schoener didn’t plan on learning how to make wine or staying in Northern California, he jumped at the chance to become Kongsgaard’s student.

Schoener is still in Napa Valley — and the entire wine world is benefiting from his decision to stay.

The reason? He makes wine as if he’s still a professor of ancient Greek philosophy. Indeed, his winemaking method would please Socrates, as Schoener is teaching us about the limits and possibilities of wine by questioning established conventions. Read the rest of this entry »

Weekly Wine Roundup: Summer Sippers!

Posted by | Posted in Wine Reviews | Posted on 08-22-2011


While several Terroirists spent the week giving our palates a rest, you’ll notice a theme amongst the wines opened by the other Terroirists — it appears the drinkers were trying to stay cool. Check out their impressions on some great summer sippers!

Ainsley Adams
At dinner at home on Sunday night we opened a 2007 Copain Alder Springs Vineyard Spirit Rock. Very velvety on the palate, medium-bodied, and meaty with a hint of smokiness.

I also had two whites that were excellent value finds — a very tasty 2010 Santa Julia[+] Torrontes and a 2009 Sawtooth Late Harvest Riesling, both around $10-15 a bottle. The Torrontes was crisp and refreshingly acidic, with bright, well-balanced citrus and mineral flavors. I will definitely look for this wine again. The Riesling, from the Snake River Valley in Idaho, tasted strongly of stone fruits along with gentler floral and honey notes.

Rebecca Canan
I moved to New York and started business school at Columbia this week! It’s been a whirlwind. As I was scrubbing down my new studio apartment, I stayed cool and sipped on a 2010 Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Ros’aura from southern Italy’s Campania region. Deep, bright salmon colored with an intensely juicy palate of red berries (strawberries, raspberries, cherries). I went to dinner at Malaparte in the West Village on Saturday night and had a pizza with porcini mushrooms, parm, and truffle oil complemented by a falanghina wine also from Campania. Dry, but round & savory with lots of floral aromas and flavors. Unfortunately, I forgot to jot down the name of the bottle and can’t seem to find it online. Read the rest of this entry »

Daily Wine News: Moscato Madness!

Posted by | Posted in Wine News | Posted on 08-22-2011

In Sonoma, the North Coast grape harvest is expected to kick off this week, several weeks later than normal.

In the San Francisco Chronicle, Jon Bonné looks at the wine list at Chez Panisse, the legendary eatery that has “quietly spurred a food revolution” over the last four decades.

Wines and Vines reports that Petit Verdot, Tannat, Malbec and Petite Sirah “can produce high-quality grapes and wine in the San Joaquin Valley, according to a field trial of 20 red winegrape varieties at the University of California’s Kearney Agricultural Research and Extension Center in Fresno County.”

In the New York Times, an in-depth look at the leading smartphone wine apps. According to tech columnist Bob Tedeschi, Cor.kz ($4 on Apple and Android) is the “best all-purpose wine app available for serious wine drinkers and collectors.”

Over the past few months, Lettie Teague has found herself “reaching for Pinot a little too readily and a little too often.” So she’s giving up Pinot Noir – for a while, at least.

“At Boulud Sud and Bar Boulud, the Wine Director Trains the Staff to Love Wine, Not be Douchebags.” (H/T: Eric Asimov.)

Moscato Madness! We’ve already reported that Moscato is the fastest-growing varietal in the United States. According to a piece in MarketWatch, “Gallo is selling at least six times the amount of sweet-tasting Moscato wine than just three years ago.”